Thread: Update to EAS Valve Block O-rings renewal guide

On the weekend, I have just been through my first full valve block rebuild with a good P38 buddy here in Melbourne (Martin - RovinRangie). Both of us were pleased that our expectations of a hard job were shattered! It worked out to be a walk in the park!

Pauls Hard Range kit and instructions are fantastic and make an expensive (if buying new EAS) or long and tricky (DIY'ing) job cheap as chips and really easy to complete. Thank you very much Paul, great stuff!

FYI, I have done some bits and pieces recently while chasing down issues with my poor performing EAS. But it seemed like you fix it for a week or two and then the next bit goes out. First I reco'd a couple of suspect solenoids... good for 2 weeks and going silly again... then the rest of the solenoids... good for 3 weeks then going silly (but differently) again... so now having done the lot I am pretty confident all will be good from here on. You can see the crap parts as you replace them and its evident some parts work harder than the rest in this gizmo.

So anyway, anyone out there having EAS troubles... don't muck around, just take half a day in the shed or where ever and follow Paul's guide. You won’t regret it. I would also add that it’s probably a good idea to re-co your air compressor at the same time.

I'm pretty sure Hard Range sell a kit that has both lots of bit’s in it through e-bay. Compare the cost of the kit to a new (or even second hand) valve block and compressor. It's like 10% or something silly like that. Like Nike say... Just Do it!

I tried to overhaul myEAS block a while ago using Pauls repair kit. Everything was fine except I found the check valves were obviously quite worn and the refurbished unit wouldn't hold pressure. I have been unable to aquire new check valves and ended up getting a new unit from the UK.
Has anyone else come up against this problem
Incidently I still haven't been able to get my faultmate working,so haven't been able to clear faults. As a result I have been running the car with the EAS completely cut out and just pump the 4 corners up to 800mm from ground to centre wheel arch, need resetting about every 4 or 5 days

Jay

I have the freeware EAS software and cable and can probably help you clear the faults.

Not sure about the Faultmate but could take a look at it.

Let me know

Dave

Hi Jay - didn't you buy that MSV-2 from me last year? and you also got a licence for your RRC as I recall?

Give me a call on the weekend if you want, and we can talk through the FaultMate issue. I should be able to help out.

If you don't have my number at hand or find it on one of the Tax Invoices I sent, PM me yours and I can call you.

...or if Dave gets there first, great. Feel free to call me anyway.

Cheers, Paul.

Hi Dave, I thought you sold your P38A. I'm not in Bris anymore, we sold out Enogera and now live in our retirement house in the beautiful Scenic RimSEQ.
Thanks for the offer though. If you ever feel like a nice drive in the country send me a PM.
Hi Paul, Yes thats me, I still have both cars. I get the faultmate out every now and then and have a fiddle but there is usually some problem I can't get past so it gets put away again.
Whats a good time to call you on the weekend I'LL get everything set up and ready to go first.
cheers Jay

Early Arvo will be best for me Jay.
Cheers, Paul.

Hi all,
May I make a suggestion with the valve block overhaul procedure.

Rather than using a small blade screw driver to remove the O rings, i think a better tool would be a piece of brass or brazing rod about 6 to 8" in length and about 2mm in dia, flattened at the end, slightly rounded and polished. The reason why is that this is softer than the other metal parts of the block, so you would be less likely to damage or score them when removing the rings.

I learn't this after many, many years working on pneumatics in the aircraft industry.

Rob

Good point: that why I obtained a plastic crochet needle ($1) with the hooked end, from Spotlight. Ideal for the job