Thor Fuel pump renew. Fuel filter Renew. Fuel level sender clean

**wayneg** · 5th October 2012, 05:51 PM

Today I fitted a generic Fuel pump to my Thor car. As far as I know this has not been documented before.
Taking out the tank unit is similar to the gems. I cut the hole in the floor to access it.
Once out and dismantled I realised that the elusive or non existent fuel filter is in fact integral to the tank unit and no doubt one of the reasons its stupidly expensive.
The high pressure generic pump I purchased for A$36, it was very close to being able to do a strait swap however the body diameter was a couple of mil to large. The pump actually fits inside the fuel filter and the new one would not go. The plug fitting was spot on exact.
I dumped the old fuel filter and put an in-line unit into the housing . The flow goes through an initial mesh, through the pump filter into the pump, out of the pump to the in-line filter then out of the tank to the engine.
Whilst on the bench I had a look at the sender as these seem common to give a false reading when low on fuel.. The electric resistance track is open in the fuel and was visibly dirty. A quick clean with crc contact cleaner made it shiny again.
Conclusion. The Thor does have a fuel filter. The pump can be changed with a generic one with a new fuel filter. Hardest part is getting the big tank sealing ring to screw back on. A high pressure pump is required, not a Commodore / Falcon type

**wayneg** · 5th October 2012, 05:57 PM

More pics of new pump and filter Plus part number on old pump and a shot of the non existent Thor fuel filter

**wayneg** · 5th October 2012, 06:04 PM

More pics of Sender unit electrical track

**bee utey** · 5th October 2012, 06:21 PM

Great write up!

One thing I have to query, did you use special in-tank fuel hose? A number of D1 fuel pumps I did with standard EFI hose swelled and burst the hose within a couple of months. I bought some of the correct hose off Burson's after that. Mackay make it, part number FHIT8x1 for 1 metre.

**wayneg** · 5th October 2012, 06:40 PM

I just used standard neoprene fuel hose. I have just had a read and you are right on the money here. I will need to change it once I have found a cheap source

**ytt105** · 5th October 2012, 08:36 PM

Excellent info!! Where did you get the new pump and what is its number?

Assuming its all working OK?

**bee utey** · 5th October 2012, 09:23 PM

Ebay has a short length of EFI rated in tank hose:

5/16" SUBMERSIBLE IN-TANK FUEL LINE HOSE SAE30R10 SPECS | eBay

No cheap but not as dear as an OEM pump assembly...

**wayneg** · 6th October 2012, 10:19 AM

Originally Posted by ytt105

Excellent info!! Where did you get the new pump and what is its number?

Assuming its all working OK?

The pump works fine. I got mine from Aliexpress but they are for sale on ebay. Just look for a high pressure pump. It was nice to have the correct electrical plug on the one I fitted. The Part number on the old one showed 1999 BMW 3 series. If you could get a similar diameter pump it would be a quick swap and you could keep the old fuel filter. I am happy I have a new fuel filter now after 235000k`s
The original pump is 38mm diameter, this one on e-bay looks identical but no idea if its capable of the pressure and flow required. 38mm Universal Fuel Pump Ford Holden Mitsubishi Mazda Suzuki Honda | eBay
I will need to take it out to change the hose at some stage, looks like 4 months is the limit on non submersible fuel line. Should be an easy job. I have found an online seller doing 500mm for AS23 so will order from them. Its 5/16 bore, the spec for the correct submersible hose is SAE30R10

**wayneg** · 9th October 2012, 06:47 PM

I took the sender / pump out again to change the hoses to a submersible type.
I realised why I was having problems getting the locking ring back on the first time and had infact pushed the seal into the tank.
On initial removal of the unit a rubber seal remained on the unit. On refitting this seal needs to be located into the top of the tank before the last inch of the unit goes in. This is a bit fiddly as it needs to be on the unit as it goes in then eased around the tank aperture before the final inch of the unit squeezes into the seal. Once in correctly the sealing ring screws on easily. On my first attempt which I messed around for an hour I must have pushed the seal into the tank so be careful. A quick test to ensure its right when finished is you should get an immediate vacuum in the tank with the engine running. Stop the car and remove the filler cap and hope for a hiss. No vacuum and you have not got the seal in properly
Changing the hoses took 20 mins

**bee utey** · 9th October 2012, 06:59 PM

Dishwashing detergent makes great lube for slipping the pump housing into the seal, seem to dissipate quite quickly.

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