Reply With QuoteEven with the joins they will make a huge difference over the OEM rubber hoses. The Samco XDB hoses have a grooved section for the clamps which makes it easier to fit. Especially the driver's side to intercooler.
ChatterBox
Got the intercooler lines done. I was a bit disappointed as I was hoping that they would be mandrel bent out of one piece. I was told that the bends are too tight and close to get correct with their bender.
The upside is that they fit like a glove - absolutely spot on. These clamps supplied are hell expensive but work very well. The lot cost about as much as a pair of replacement silicon hoses.
I have removed them again and painted the tubes. I will wrap the right sided one with exhaust wrap.
Anyone contemplating to have these made, be sure to clean out and swarf from the inside of these before fitting.
When I have time (Ha Ha) I will see if I can find a manufacturer who can make these in one piece - I have a few companies in mind.
Erich
OldBushie
Even with the joins they will make a huge difference over the OEM rubber hoses. The Samco XDB hoses have a grooved section for the clamps which makes it easier to fit. Especially the driver's side to intercooler.
MY15 Discovery 4 SE SDV6
Past: 97 D1 Tdi, 03 D2a Td5, 08 Kimberley Kamper, 08 Defender 110 TDCi, 99 Defender 110 300Tdi[/SIZE]
ChatterBox
Yahoo, went for a drive in the Puma today. It started first kick. We are still waiting to get into the paint shop though.
A little more info on the turbo hoses. I left the hot side uninsulated and insulated the left side hose as per pic below. I used the same insullation as used in the cab heat proofing and wrapped the lot with A/C aluminium tape. Doesn't look that pretty but it is quite practicable.
The hose is difficult to see in amongst everything else.
As for priming the fuel, I couldn't get those suction bellows type of devices to work. I have tried a couple of different versions.
The best solution I found was to slightly pressurise the fuel tank - a few PSI is all that is required. Be sure to have an open end before doing this though.
Here is how I primed the fuel system, after the priming pump didn't work
Step 1 Disconnect the fuel line which is at the tip of the screwdriver in the pic
Step 2 Put fuel line into a glass jar. (pic taken after the process was completed)
Step 3 Air into the fuel tank. In my case this is a sim.le process as I have the breather close by.
Step 4 Replace the fuel line
Erich
ChatterBox
Well done mate, to start first kick after what you have done, must be a great feeling. Congrates
Jason
2010 130 TDCi
ChatterBox
I forgot to answer this. I have just measured the seats on our TD5 Defender and the rail hole positions appear to be the same - 445mm (rough measurement with a tape measure) between centers in either direction. Also the sliders and rails look the same.Originally Posted by isuzurover
Erich
ChatterBox
We had the Puma booked in for painting today, but the paint shop put it off due to the heat wave going through Sydney presently. They will give us a call in a few days when it cools down a bit. The Kat is also insulated. I may go a bit further back, but ran out of material.
On another note, there is a bit of discussion on another thread about cab temperature on the 110. Below is a pic I took this evening with the car on the hoist, showing the heat insulation we installed. The vertical face of the firewall is also insulated.
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Erich
Master
SubscriberThis is going to be one smick Defender!
If only thats how they came from the factory.
Geeze what am I thinking!No thats not right at all, just wouldn't be a Landy to come ("Bundalened") from factory.
Erich, spoke to Paul the other day, re: the breather block you installed.
I'd like to do the same and asked Paul on a price etc. He wasn't sure how compatible it was on the Defender.
Could you please give me the heads up on whether there is any thing out of the ordinary to install. Or is it a straight bolt in, run lines etc.
I can then ask the boys to send one to me.
Thanks,
Tod.
Wizard
Hi Tod, Andy called me from Mt Isa a couple of days ago and he didn't think there were any changes to the breather kit to suit the Defender.
Would be great if Erich can confirm from his experience.
Cheers, Paul.
My toys, projects and write-ups at PaulP38a.com
Admin
Is Andy still at Mt Isa? Ihope he and family will be OK they reckon that storm front could reach there although by that point it should be a hell of a lot weaker
Our Land Rover does not leak oil! it just marks its territory.......
ChatterBox
The block used on the P38 is suitable for the TD5 Defender and Puma and also for the TDi Defenders except for the fuel breather (I think this is done through the fuel cap on the TDi's)
It is as simple as finding the individual breathers, joining them with the supplied joining fittings and running them to the new breather block, all snap press fittings.
Some Defenders have the fuel tank breather on the rear left TD5's and earlier Pumas and later Pumas are on the rear right.
Gearbox and transfer box breathers are generally in the engine bay area, as is the front diff. The Puma has no external gearbox breather.
The rear diff breather on the Defender runs up the rear left trailing arm and into the chassis. On some later Pumas this goes into the engine bay area
As for running the lines, firmly cable tie them in a safe area, away from any heat source. Along thetop of the chassis rail if there is room seems to work. If you chose, you can cut the 'U' bend off the end of the existing breather before joining.
I find it good practice to follow the breather to the source and check for damage. It is often, especially on older vehicles, at least one is damaged somewhere along the length either by rubbing through or rock / stick damage.
Erich
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