Thread: LT95 rebuild for beginners

Stirlsilver has already posted up an awesome collection of photos and description of disassembling an LT95, so no point in re-doing that part.

See here (start at post 168):
Series III Stage 1 with a bit of a difference

Seems he did what I've done - take the box and start pulling bits off until its all in pieces. If something wont come off then remove the part that is stopping it

I reckon there is probably a more logical sequence to it that would make things go a lot more smoothly. The manual has sections on stripping each part of the gearbox, but not an overall "complete disassembly" procedure.

So - over to the guru's....
Whats the best order to strip an LT95 in (and why)?

Steve

the lt 95 is 3/5 on the spanners scale..
roughly
best start point is to get it out of the vehicle.
then
strip the linkages + parkbrake tab + the mount plates
stand it on its nose
remove the parkbrake side
strip the tcase side,
drop the foot
(the above makes it lighter to handle and gives you more handholds)
bench it
strip the pump
remove the bellhousing (might be thinking lt85 Ive been drinking bobs B+C)
remove the top
pull the selector mech
remove the front plate
extract the shafts
split the shafts apart.


the rangie book is good but IMHO the EMEI is better. except it deals with the trb setup.

Dave, is the "foot" the front cover that houses the input shaft seal and the oil pump?

I was advised to stand the box vertically before removing the front plate and shafts.

Both times I have done it, I've found it tricky to get the front plate off as it has to pull the layshaft out a bit to disengage it. In my case I still had the output gear on the mainshaft, so maybe its not a problem if you've already stripped the back of the box.
I'd wondered if removing the studs from the front of the box would make it any easier to remove the front plate?

Its reasonably obvious, but there are detent balls, springs and plungers on the selector shafts that WILL jump out and roll away under your workbench if you forget to remove them as you proceed.

Steve

yep...

I call the part that holds the 4 speed and reverse the "main box"
the part that is the Tcase is the "leg"
and the part that unbolts from the front of the Tcase that houses the CDL is the "foot"

it stems from working on outboards

I usually lay the whole thing on a large sheet and dont worry about where the detents and springs fall out as the sheet will catch them and the RPS and EMEI give the lenghts and sizes of what should go where .

As Dave says using something like a sheet is a good idea to catch anything that rolls or shoots out. I use a piece of wire with a small 90 degree bend on the end of it and a magnet to remove the detent balls and selector interlocks, the reverse spring is defferent to the other 2 and is marked with a dob of yellow paint on the side.

Originally Posted by Bearman

As Dave says using something like a sheet is a good idea to catch anything that rolls or shoots out. I use a piece of wire with a small 90 degree bend on the end of it and a magnet to remove the detent balls and selector interlocks, the reverse spring is defferent to the other 2 and is marked with a dob of yellow paint on the side.

I wouldn't have noticed that, and don't recall seeing it mentioned in the manual.

A picture to illustrate - reverse must be the one on the RH side:



Steve

Thats it Steve, the one on the right with the paint on it. You can see it's a bit longer than the other two. I have taken a couple of pics of some of my "special" tools and an illustration of what the two most technical ones are used for. There is also a one of what can happen when the centre diff bolts come loose, this is why it's important to loctite them when you reassemble it.

So...now we've got the box in a bazillion bits on the bench, and have cleaned everything ready for inspection/re-assembly.

From the perspective of a tutorial, I think it makes sense to go through the box section by section and deal with known issues and things to look out for, then assembly of that section. Hopefully that will keep all the info for that section together rather than jumping back/forth through the thread.

Lets start with the layshaft as its a very simple part, and it needs to be set up before the main box is assembled.

Steve