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Thread: the coke bottle cooling system fill.

  1. #1
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    the coke bottle cooling system fill.

    first prep your bottle, ok, this ones not a coke bottle its a coles budget 1.5l water bottle but near enough remove the cap and then the little security ring that normally holds it on. Dont ask, just trust me its a pain to fish it out of the cooling system later.

    IMAG0065.jpg

    cool

    now fill it up and invert it into the expansion tank and it'll go glugity glugity glugity as it puts a measured 1.5l into the cooling system by changing water for air.

    IMAG0066.jpg

    By this stage you should know how much goes in your cooling system and at what concentration you need to have your coolant at. so with the first 1.5-3 l of fresh water in the system add your concentrated coolant to get the dosage level you want. Of course this does assume that when you emptied the system out you had the forethought of flushing the system with distilled water until it was flowing cleanly before dumping all the distilled water out that you could.

    now add more water and eventually you'll hit an equilibrium point

    IMAG0069.jpg

    when that happens pull the bottle out fill it up again and make sure that the water level is higher than the next highest point in the cooling system (the heater hoses in a tdi deefer)

    then start it up, give it 30 seconds or so at idle while you inspect for obvious leak then give it high idle with a blanket over the front of the grill to retard airflow.

    and you'll notice this.
    IMAG0073.jpg

    the concentrated coolant heated by the engine circulating up into the water bottle. (ok coke bottle if your doing it right) sometimes its got plenty of bubbles and the level will drop below that of the highest point, if it does just refill the bottle and tip it in again.

    when that stops bubbling air in keep the revs on and check by hand the temperatures at the thermostat housing (dont do that on the TD5, you will loose an arm to the belt use the port on the top of the engine on the passangers side where youd expect the thermostat to be) top and bottom radiator hoses, and the heater hoses, have the heater on flat out so you can check that its flowing correctly as well. Once the engines warmed up you'll notice a fairly rapid change in the color of the water in the bottle

    IMAG0074.jpg

    when it looks like its changed as much as its going to remove the bottle, cap the cooling system, cap the bottle and then move the vehicle to a dry patch of concrete to check for leaks let it idle for 5 minutes or so then take it for a drive checking the engine for leaks at the 10, 50 and 100Km marks be sure to vary your driving over the range to expose the system to the full range of operating conditions.

    when you get back the system should have purged any excess coolant and now be at the right level, grab a paint pen and mark the side of the expansion tank and use that as your warm coolant level indicator, then in the morning while its cooled down mark the bottle again for the cold mark.

    done and dusted, as a bonus you have about 1l of ready to use premixed coolant in a convenient bottle and if you had any contamination in the system you'll have signs of it in a ready to analyze container.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  2. #2
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    I love it, a simple and cheap tutorial, just how I like it....now if I could only find a way to repair my footwells cheaply and easily

  3. #3
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    Dave

    One other thing that should be noted,is that the heater should be turned ON prior prior to initial flushing and left ON when filling the cooling system.
    Wayne
    ​VK2VRC
    "LandRover" What the Japanese aspire to be
    Taking the road less travelled
    '01 130 dualcab HCPU locked and loaded
    LowRange 116.76:1

  4. #4
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    when first removing the coolant, whats the best way to flush the system before refill? esepcially if you think its got tap water and a different brand of coolant in it than what will be run....

  5. #5
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    I usually drain and catch what I can, then unplug a heater hose put the hose from the tap from my rainwater tank or from jerries into the heater hose, leave the engine idling and keep adding water till its running clear.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  6. #6
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    Hi Dave,

    Like the tutorial, but excuse my ignorance (poor mechanicing) but why do I need the cool and warm coolent marks? Or is it for something else?

  7. #7
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    coolant expands when its hot and the coolant system cap has a vent that will firstly expell any gross excesses of coolant and then vent steam until the system meets its equilibrium point.

    Marking the expansion tank after you do the test drive gives you your new hot level mark.

    overnight when the engine cools and draws everything back down the level in the tank drops and marking it there gives you your new cold level mark.

    basically it gives you an "at-a-glance" level marker on the outside of the expansion tank.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
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    Central Coast NSW
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    Thanks everyone and especially Blkniight for the tutorial.

    Now I've got the stupid centre bolt out of the turbo cover I can now attack the rest. Some goose had rounded it at some point which doesn't help at all.

    Oh noticed top front exhaust stud seems to be missing or part thereof, should be another fun job soon. Doesn't look like its leaking though, or maybe just a very slight carbon discolouration at top of outlet so I figure it hasn't warped yet at least. Lucky me!

  9. #9
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    Dave sorry to raise an old post but what's the significance of using rain or distilled water to flush the system as opposed to tap water?

  10. #10
    Join Date
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    the purity of the water, depending on where you live you might have water with additives in it that dont react well with the metals or coolant in the system.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

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