Caster Corrected Front Swivels, How to do it...

**sclarke** · 1st January 2009, 07:54 PM

Guys, my Rangie had the typical problem of Bump steer due to "Over lifting" i'm running 4.75" front bumpstop and due to this the caster was way out from Standard.

So i looked at the ideas with cranked arms and cranked bushes, but other problems would arise, like prop shaft yoke angles ect....

So i contacted Les Richmond Automotive and got a set of Swivels slotted.

The following is how i fitted them.

1st, Disassemble the whole front Diff and clean it all up

Then bolt up the Caster corrected swivels and do a trial fit to see where the 2 new holes are to be drilled and tapped

I then took them off and panted the housing where the bolts were to go with a texta, that way when i scribbed it, it would show up clear...

Then i scribbed them, marked out the centers of the holes and drilled a pilot drill, then the correct drill size to suit my Tap that i was using. The tap i used was a 10mm with 1.5 pitch

I then tapped them and this is the end result

Then you fit a gasket, cut the 2 new holes in it, fit up the Swivle and make sure you put the new wiper seal and retaining plate on 1st.... i forgot the 1st time...
Then put the 2 extra bolts in and loctite and torque to the specifyed settings...

Then put the whole assembly back together...
and it should look like this...

After all of that i check my wheel alignment and went for a drive....
Noticable difference and now it drives like a Rangie should....

Clarkie

mcrover · 1st January 2009, 08:07 PM

Does it have any noticable reduction in front shaft vibration Clarkie?

Good job

**rovercare** · 1st January 2009, 08:12 PM

Originally Posted by mcrover

Does it have any noticable reduction in front shaft vibration Clarkie?

Good job

How? has not effect on the front shaft

**discologist** · 1st January 2009, 08:18 PM

how much did the swivels cost you from les?i got a jacked disco running 35s and caster correction bushes dont give enough caster,so i think your solution will make the disco drive like a car again..............cheers,Ramon.

**sclarke** · 2nd January 2009, 07:56 AM

Originally Posted by discologist

how much did the swivels cost you from les?i got a jacked disco running 35s and caster correction bushes dont give enough caster,so i think your solution will make the disco drive like a car again..............cheers,Ramon.

$150 per side

Cheaper than cranked arms and does not cause propshaft issues.

Or buy my 6 bolt ones for $200 posted.....

mcrover · 2nd January 2009, 10:12 AM

Originally Posted by rovercare

How? has not effect on the front shaft

It does effect the angle of the uni on the front diff which in some cases (mine included) gives a bit of vibration after you lift it.

Slotting the balls is meant to eliminate (or atleast reduce) this vibration but ive been told about it but wanted to know if Steve had found that.

It has no effect on the TC end of the shaft just the front diff end.

**weeds** · 2nd January 2009, 10:32 AM

slotted or extra holes drilled? everybody is referring to slotted is this what you are calling the extra holes

any reason you didn't drill your own swivels out

mike 90 RR · 2nd January 2009, 12:34 PM

Originally Posted by sclarke

$150 per side

Cheaper than cranked arms and does not cause propshaft issues.

Or buy my 6 bolt ones for $200 posted.....

Your 6 bolt ones are slotted ... rather than redrilled? as I saw a photo of them

Originally Posted by mcrover

Does it have any noticable reduction in front shaft vibration Clarkie?

I would not expect it .. as the diff angle has not been altered ... only castor angle altered ... but would like to know also

Originally Posted by mcrover

It does effect the angle of the uni on the front diff which in some cases (mine included) gives a bit of vibration after you lift it.

Slotting the balls is meant to eliminate (or at least reduce) this vibration but ive been told about it but wanted to know if Steve had found that.

It has no effect on the T/C end of the shaft just the front diff end.

The castor correction rubbers are suppose to turn the diff housing ... so as to improve the castor & the diff angle .... My understanding is that the diff uni and the T/C uni are to be of the same amount of degrees to eliminate Propshaft / driveline vibration

Hence ... you can't have the diff uni straight and the T/C uni bent ... must be the same angle

This is what the cranked arms are suppose to do?? ... Turn the diff housing

Mike

mcrover · 2nd January 2009, 02:23 PM

Originally Posted by mike 90 RR

Your 6 bolt ones are slotted ... rather than redrilled? as I saw a photo of them

I would not expect it .. as the diff angle has not been altered ... only castor angle altered ... but would like to know also

The castor correction rubbers are suppose to turn the diff housing ... so as to improve the castor & the diff angle .... My understanding is that the diff uni and the T/C uni are to be of the same amount of degrees to eliminate Propshaft / driveline vibration

Hence ... you can't have the diff uni straight and the T/C uni bent ... must be the same angle

This is what the cranked arms are suppose to do?? ... Turn the diff housing

Mike

Ok, I get it now, maybe the person I was talking to (I dont know him, I just met him at Jamies) must have had caster correcting bushes or done other stuff to change the diff angle.

I see what you guys mean now.

**DeeJay** · 2nd January 2009, 02:29 PM

Clarkie,
If your old swivel housings are slotted, then Richmonds housings offer a greater angle?? Is it much?
I can't see why you would bother otherwise.
I've got both slotted housings & caster correction but my County is'nt lifted much and i think its causing the occassional wobbles.
BTW, is that twin shockers & a rear sals I see in your pic?
Cheers, David

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