4th Aug, 2007 Leave Melbourne in a 2005 Defender, with my 6yo navagator Alex guiding me. Made for Dubbo the first day. Heading towards Airley Beach, where my wife Michelle, flies up to join us on Hayman Island for some work meetings.

5th Aug.
Stopped at Dubbo to explore the zoo. Nice to be able to ride bikes around. Left around 1pm, and made it to Goondawindi that night.

6th Aug.
Drove all day (with lots of stops) and made it to Gladstone in the evening.

7th Aug.
Made it to the Big 4 caravan park in Airley Beach. It is a top spot to stay, and lots to see and do there. Alex was one of the few English speeking kids around.

8th.
Went to Porcipine airport at 1200. Was a bit intimidating to have about 30 Cops show up at the airport also waiting for the plane. I was hoping Michelle was behaving herself, or nothing was wrong. Turned out that it was a drug sweep, to see if anyone was bringing any drugs out for the Audi Offshore Sailboat races in the Whitsundays. Got her back to the camp safely and without any dramas with the cops.

9th - 14th
Out to Hayman Island. Lovely spot, but not really my scene. I was looking forward to the telegraph track!! Michelle relaxed and swam at the pool while I attended my meetings. My highlight for that was when the boat broke, and they had to fly us back by sea plane. Would have never forked out the money for the trip, but they had no choice. Did cost $15 dollars to take a cab back to Schute Harbour where my Defender was garaged. Great storage for the Defender right at Schute Harbour. I think it was $15 a day for under cover secure storage. The plan was to stay in caravan parks, where possible, as flushing toilets, and showers would make Michelle's introduction to camping more enjoyable.

14th.
Mid morning headed north. Had lunch in Townsville, and decided to continue to Rollingstone Caravan Park. (about 60k north of Townsville). Nice park right on the beach. The powered sites were chocca, but we had the unpowered area all to ourselves. Not a lot else in Rollingstone.

15th.
Short trip to Cairns. Set up camp in the caravan park, and sources more supplies, and stocked up the fridge.

16th.
Early start, and ambled our way up to the Daintree River, and Cape Tribulation. Missed any place to stop and eat, and crossed the river and on to the Bloomfield track. Michelle was a bit taken back, as she did not expect to do any 4wd until after Cooktown. By the time we made it to the Lions Den Hotel, they had stopped serving lunch. I reckon we could have hit any number of cows wandering around the road, and we could have had some nice steaks. Made it to Cooktown, and set the tent up at the local caravan park. Decided to spend 2 nights in Cooktown, as there is a lot to see and do here. I simply fell in love with the place. Granted it is not the buildup to the wet, and the winds were limited to under 25knots.



18th.
Headed north from Cooktown and towards Lakefield National Park. Passed through the Old Laura Station, which was very interesting to poke around at.



Lakefield was interesting but was a bit disappointd that the main road did not wander closer to some of the main attractions. We would pass signs that such and such was 16k this way off the road. Not knowing what I wanted to see or do here, we continued to the Hann River crossing ( I mis-read the map. Kowpar crossing had the showers, not Hann River). We did learn a valuable lesson here. We need to do a reconnisance of the camping area before we choose a site. At Hann River camp site, I pulled in to a large open although dusty site. Got the tent out, and started to set up camp. We wanted to be by the toilets. After looking at the map, this site was for organized tours only. Loaded the tent on the bonnet and moved to the next site. Was a nice site, with good views of the river (and well elevated so the crocs. can't get into the site). Alex was riding his bike, and wanted to show us what was up the track. Walked up to the next camp, and it was an absolute oasis. Beautiful and shaded, and on a point with river on both sides. By this time the tent was set up, and was not moving it again. Note to self. See all the available sites and pick the best!



19th.

We were told the main road up to Bramwell Junction was a bit boring, and not much to see, so thought that we would get as far as we could, and check out the stations along the way for suitable places to stop. Went through Musgrave, Coen, and the Archer river road house, before Michelle said "Lets just keep going". Made it up to Bramwell junction and the start of the old telegraph track. Set up the tent behind the "roadhouse" at the junction, and had a nice hot shower. Talking with the guy in the shop, he said that the first river crossing is the worst, If you can make that one, shoud be no problems from there. While Michelle was cooking up some dinner, Alex, and I headed off to check out the first crossing. About 6k up the track we came to the crossing and a broken down 1960 series II Land Rover. Seemed the right front wheel stripped the bolts that hold the whole assembly on the car. He broke it trying to come out of the river, and was eventually towed to where he was now. They had set up camp, and (I think his name was) Chris had dis-assembled the front hub. They wanted to stay with the car, and it was Sunday night, but I offered to come back in the morning, and take Julie back to the junction in the morning, where someone at the station might be able to drill and tap out the holes, and fit new bolts in. When we made it back to the junction in the morning she got on the phone. They couldn't fix it at the station, but someone there was going to Weipa, and she could get a lift. So off she zoomed with a bundle of front hub under her arm, on the back of a quad bike to the station 7k away. We let Chris know what was happening when we made our way through later in the morning. He was very greatful, and a large slab of frozen Barramundi made it into my fridge. Thanks again Chris, and Julie.



At that crossing, we met up with some fellow travellers, and as they had children we travelled together. They have a Patrol, and were towing a camper trailer. After several river crossings, I was getting the hang of this, and feeling more confident with each crossing. At Gunshot creek the bypass track that everyone was taking was to the right. Steep drop, and into the river. Hard left turn up the river to the exit. Mark was afraid that if he took this track, the weight of the trailer would push him into the far bank, and he would be stuck. The far left track was the best "line" with a trailer. Steep drop, with a right camber, and into the mud at the bottom. Figured if I could get through, he would have a chance, and I could pull him out if needed. There was also a LandCruiser that was on the other side to pull me out if I needed it.




The Defender made it through with ease. God I love this car!!

Then it was Mark's turn. The trailer got hung up, and pulled the car into the downside bank. I reversed back into the deep mud, and hooked his winch cable to my car, and he was able to winch himself out. His wife did some deep mud walking to get it all sorted out.
He was proud to have made it through Gunshot towing a trailer. I was proud to make it through Gunshot towing a Patrol, and a trailer.

From there it was a lovely trip up the track to Elliot/Twin/Indian head falls, where we camped for the night. Lovely spot, and great swimming. The only down side, was Michelle slipped while climbing out of the water, and broke a couple of toes. Lots of ibuprophen, and tape, saw her somewhat mobile, but seriously restricted in what she could do. We would have stayed a couple of nights here if we all could swim, but thought heading towards Bamaga and a doctor would be prudent, if her foot bacame unmanagable.



20th.
Saw us heading north, as Michelle got a few hours sleep, and was in moderate spirits. The log bridge at Cypress creek was a bit daunting, and my mouth was dry as I decended on to the bridge (after a bit of re-construction) The groaning, and popping as I drove across was very intimidating, but once across, thought what was all the fuss?



Nolan's Brook was the deepest crossing to date. After Pedder in his Landcruiser ahead of me started to float (he just had enough momentum to get traction on the far side) I figured give it plenty of power once in the water. With a blind in place, I waded into the water, and gave it the boot. The water came over the bonnet, up the windscreen, and on to the roof, in a spectacular wave. Guess I gave it a bit too much power, but I made it through with no dramas.



After a nice lunch, we cut across to the Bypass road, and up to the Jardine River Ferry. After a fuel up (the cheapest we found in the Cape) and crossing, we headed to Punsand Bay We based ourselves here for three nights. Lovely spot, and great to watch the sunrise. Alex played in the pool when we were in camp, and there were other children to play with.



21st.
Drive to the tip of Australia. It was low tide, so we could walk most of the way on the level beach (easier for Michelle, and us) Was a wonderful experience to know we made it. and everyone enjoyed the journey.



22nd.
Spent the day exploring. The Croc. Tent at the turn off for Punsand bay is a great place for local information. Drove out to Nanthau beach, and the Somerset ruins. Great beach driving at low tide. Packed sand on the beach, soft and rocky on the headlands that need to be crossed. Then to Seisia for supplies. Made a large pot of beef stew in the pressure cooker, and shared it with our fellow travellers. Mark and Sue, Pedder, and Melissia & kids. Everyone made some part of the dinner, and it was a feast.

23rd.
More exploring and filled up with water at a stream coming back from Bamaga.

24th.
More exploring after breaking camp, and preparing to go our seperate ways, and head south. Stopped at a couple of WWII aircraft wrecks. The 1st a Beaufrot bomber,which is in pretty good condition considering it crashed 60+ years ago. The other is a DC3 that crashed about the same time. The latter is fenced off.



Heading back towards the ferry, saw Roothy, and Milo doing a photo shoot along the side of the road. As we passed, saw their photographer snapping shots of us, so we might make it into the mag?? At the ferry crossing we had to wait as it was broken again, and had to be towed across by means a ute on each side with a long heavy rope. Could only take a few cars at a time this way. Saw another couple there, but they were just watching, so didn't take much notice. After fueling up on the south side again, saw them again, and it dawned on me that we cut in front of them to get on the ferry. They were there first, but off to the side. He was driving a Toyota ute, and she was driving a 130 single cab. Both fully loaded with gear. Talking to them on the radio while heading shouth, they were moving to Weipa. We passed them on the Bypass road, as they were driving slowly. We could hear them take the turnoff for the OTL track, and we continued on the southern section of the bypass track. This was the worst section of corrigated road I have ever seen. It was pure hell driving on it and Alex got car sick. We came to the junction at the same time as the couple moving to Weipa. Much more discussion was had on the radio, and we agreed to meet up at Bromwell junction for a burger. As we were going to Weipa also we were invited to follow them across a shortcut, which we did. Tim has just gotten a job with the Queensland Government to hunt down and kill feral pigs on the western beaches. I doubt that the government was seeking this, but Tim, and Parina are very committed to saving the turtles. I reckon he got someone to create a position. It seems that 95% of the turtle egg nests are being wiped out by the pigs. He has an ultralight kite, which he and Parina fly. When he sees a mob of pigs, he marks the spot on his GPS. Then later he can come back and hunt them. It seems they really like my expresso coffee, as they came by our camp the next morning, and we each had several cups. That night Michelle, Alex, and I had dinner at the Albatross restaurant. Beautiful meal, and a great setting.

25th.
Spent the day exploring Weipa. Took the mine tour. It was interesting, and worth the time it took. Not much to look at at the mine itself, but the town tour part of it was very interesting. Alex liked the big trucks, and diggers.

26th.

Headed off early, and went due east. Took the shortcut, and then crossed the French Line track on our way to Chilli Beach. The French line track was by far the most difficult 4wd track we have experienced on the cape. Very rutted, and as it is a straight line it goes over whatever is in it's path. The first river crossing was fine, although steep entry, and exit, but nice enough to have lunch by the water. When we got to the Pasco River crossing it was an other story. The water was deep, and moving swiftly. The exit has a large rock and log that has to be scrambled over on the exit. I walked almost half way across, but it got up to my mid thigh, and I was afraid of crocs. It was pretty scary, as we hadn't seen anyone the whole time we were on the track, but I wasn't willing to go back across that track and go around. The winch was made ready to pull myself out it I got hung up on the rock, or log. In we plunged, and crossed the water. The Defender scrambled out the other side without even slowing down. Have I said I love this car??
Our destination was Chilli Beach. What a lovely spot. We spent 2 nights there.

27th.
Was wondering why the camp sites are back in the bushes, until I ventured out on to the beach. The wind roars off the Coral Sea at about 20 knots, and does not let up. Went for some walks, and exploring, just relaxed. This is what this is all about. Alex met up with a girl he was playing with in Cooktown, and so was occuppied as only a 6 year old can be. Drank coconut milk, and ate fresh coconuts. Finished the rest of the Baramundi, and other fine food.



28th.
Reluctantly we departed Chilli Beach, and continued south. Arrived in Laura so we could see some Aboriginal art work. The town of Laura was O.K., but the caravan area was a dump. We had heard of a station just north that was nice, so we contactd Jowalbinna station. They have camping for $8pp. Off we went down 40k of track, and ended up at the station. Was a large grassy paddock where we set the tent up on the banks of a lovely creek, and swimming hole. They even had a meal for us that night (which we paid for). We decided to stay two nights, and spent the next day taking a guided tour of the Aboriginal rock art that is on the property. Was fascinating, and not very touristy. In the afternoon, we went back into Laura and went to the Cultural centre. From here I was able to call Land Rover in Cairns to book my car in, as the headlights had shorted out.

30th.
Left Jowalbinna in the morning and headed to Lakeland. Got a great coffe at the roadhouse, and then drove onto bitumen again. Drove south towards Cairns, and cut through the deviding range at Mossman. Wanted to go to Hartleys Crocodile Farm, as we didn't see a crock on the whole trip. Michelle and Alex were flying home on the 31st, so would give us something to do that day. Ended up getting a site at the caravan park in Cairns close to the Land Rover dealership. Went down that afternoon, and had Renee check out the car. Seemed the main fuse under the drivers seat for the lights blew. Don't to this day know why, but replaced the fuse.

31st.
Went to Hartly's Croc Farm in the morning. Was very interesting. Spent six hours looking around, and having a good time. Went into Cairns that afternoon, and did some shopping. Got out to the airport early, and waited for Michelle and Alex's flight. Once they boarded, I headed back to the tent, and heard them take off shortly after.

1st Sept -4th Sept
Headed south to Townsville, and then cut inland. Took the inland hwy's in the straightest track back to Melbourne. Would drive 13 + hours, and would only stop for fuel, breaks, and at night 6-7 because the kangaroos were so thick, I didn't want to damage the car. Made it home at about 4pm on the 4th, which in my opinion was good time.

What would I do differently next trip?
Long range tank. 75l is not enough. 20l gerry takes up a lot of space when it is at a premium.
Water tank (either sill or rear wheel arch) Again space is needed in the car.
Air conditioner needs to be moved to rear of cargo barrier, to give Michelle a place for her feet.
Maybe next time we will try a camper trailer.

Great trip report

__________________
- '94 300Tdi Defender 110 Station Wagon
- '59 Series II LWB w/ Hardtop - Molly
- '03 MG-TF 160 - departed 22/12/2005 :-(

18/11/1998 - 1/04/2007 - Ricki, dearly departed

-- I'm sorry sir but my intelligence circuits have melted - Kryton

I really enjoyed reading the article as well as the pics.
I have just turned green with envy of the great trip u have just undertaken. I do hope all the toes have healed.
Fabulousy well written.
Tim

Excellent Report and great photo's.

I still want to get up to the tip, but only made as far as Cooktown so far.

__________________
Cheers,

Phil

2000 Discovery TD5 Auto
Pioneer Argyle SE Camper Trailer

Beauty is in The Eye Of The Beer Holder........

Great trip report. That's one trip I have never done.

thanks

Great report mate

Great report and pics
We did the trip in 94 with our kids...bought back many good memories.
We also loved Cooktown and Chilli Beach

__________________
NM


1950 S1 (project)
1955 S1 107in - Thomas
1957 S1 88in - Leon
1964 S2a SWB Ex-mil GS - Castrol
2006 Defender TD5 - Gandalf

Great report & photos Ken. Its been on the list for a while, but has now moved up a couple of places.

Good report Ken!

I think it makes us all want to go out and do it.

Thanks for putting it up with the photo's

Ditto all the above, its one trip that I really want to do with the family,

Regards

Stevo

__________________
2003 D2 TD5..stock...soon to be modified
Ex 2005 D3 V8 HSE, 255/55/R18 All Terrain Grabbers, Kaymar Rear Bar/ Wheel carrier- My Car
2004 Ford XR6- Her Car

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