Tommy's LRPV Restoration - Page 21

Shonky · #**201** (**permalink**) 18th July 2008, 11:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dinty

hope that helps some-one out there

Me! Thanks Dennis!

Tommy K · #**202** (**permalink**) 20th July 2008, 08:59 PM

Again, I only had limited time in the garage this weekend but spent the time working on the tub and preparing parts such as the pintle hook, fire extinguisher mount and tool holders.

The tool holders, extinquisher mount and pintle hook have spent the last few days soaking in a mild acid bath to clean and deal with the rust. Once out, I wire brush them down with my 100mm angle grinder. This gets rid of the paint and surface rust ready for undercoating. Prior to applying undercoat to metal objects, I apply a coating of Ranex (rust converter) to make sure all surfaces are free of rust. This work well and should guarantee a rust free future.

Those that are restoring any ex army Land Rover will probably come across metal parts such as the rear tail light protectors that are pitted from rust.
I have found a way of returning these parts to near new. I remove the part, paint strip/wire brush it, undercoat it with etch primer and then apply a number of coats of Primer Filler. You can sand it back if you wish but I prefer to leave as is

Others may have different methods but I find this one satisfactory.

For anyone who wish to accurately replicate authentic stenciled information on their restoration project, I have posted photos showing the height of the tire pressure and tare weight information hand painted on the side of the GS.

Over the next few weeks I shall be readying the GS for it's new motor and hopefully give it a underbody sandblast.

apjmcmahon · #**203** (**permalink**) 20th July 2008, 09:32 PM

TommyK,

Couple of quick questions if I may:
a) source of mild acid bath? commercial or home recipe?
b) new motor source?

Thanks

Andrew

Tommy K · #**204** (**permalink**) 20th July 2008, 09:42 PM

G'day Andrew

I use a mild mix of hydrocloric acid as I had some left over from a cleaning job I did recently. I have however been told of a 'miracle' acid mix that does one hell of a job. I will be trying this mix out in the coming week

As for a new motor for the GS, I went out and sourced a Land Rover that had a rebuilt motor. If you look around, you can pick up average condition Landys that have above average motors. Take the motor out and sell the remainder for parts. If you're a wise purchaser, you should end up with a good motor for nil $'s

This is the new motor for the GS. It may not look much but it has been recently rebuilt including new head. Runs like a dream.

chazza · #**205** (**permalink**) 21st July 2008, 09:11 AM

Hydrochloric acid works well, but it has the disadvantage that if you forget about it, the parts will be attacked/disappear; it also attacks your skin and is hazardous waste once you have finished with it.

I prefer molasses, mixed 1 part in 10 with water. It will attack steel, but does it so slowly it doesn't really matter if you remember weeks later, that you have something in the bath. For this reason, like hydrochloric acid, it needs to be in a plastic bath of some description; bucket; drainage pipe; black plastic etc. It also has the advantage of not attacking your skin but I wear gloves anyway because the decaying rust pongs a bit; it is organic and non-polluting as far as I can make out.

If you mix it with hot water and keep the bath warm (as when brewing beer) it will work very quickly, especially if the parts are removed every 3 or 4 days and scrubbed with a wire brush.

Nice work Stuart!

Cheers Charlie

Dinty · #**206** (**permalink**) 21st July 2008, 06:39 PM

G'day All, What is an underbody sandblast??, I'm curious cheers Dennis

Tommy K · #**207** (**permalink**) 21st July 2008, 07:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chazza

Hydrochloric acid works well, but it has the disadvantage that if you forget about it, the parts will be attacked/disappear; it also attacks your skin and is hazardous waste once you have finished with it.

Charlie

I found that if you remove a part from the acid and then leave it without thoroughly washing it down with water and/or turps, the acidic reaction continues and the next thing you see - on the less than robust bits (threaded bolts and studs) - is a crusty coating of rust

You are certainly correct in saying that careful attention to this process is required.

I will post the formula for this new acid wash when I have tested it

Tommy K · #**208** (**permalink**) 21st July 2008, 07:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dinty

G'day All, What is an underbody sandblast??, I'm curious cheers Dennis

G'day Dennis

This replica will eventually have a 'as in service' appearance when finished.

As part of this project I will simply 'clean' under the vehicle with a high pressure steam cleaner and then give it a garnet 'whip over' with the sandblaster. I will then give it a coat of paint.
When the Landy is finished, I will take it into the bush for a 'final coat of realism'. By driving it through bushes and mud it should scratch and dirty up nicely thereby giving it that 'used and abused' look that adorned all of the LRPVs. It's a bit like a model maker building a tank model and then making it look 'war weary'.

Tommy K · #**209** (**permalink**) 22nd July 2008, 07:03 PM

G'day All

The last few months have been busy on the LRPV front. What with 2 recent recoveries over east, one replica underway, another nearly complete and a heap of new photos landing on my doorstep, I would say things are going great guns.

As you know, the SASR Museum has an intermediate configured LRPV in their collection. It came straight from service into storage and then underwent a cosmetic renovation by the SAS workshops. As part of the recent aquisition of photos, a number of photos were of this LRPV before and after the renovation.

As can be seen in photo 1, the LRPV appears in a 'in service' two tone green camo scheme. By the looks of it, the overcoat was applied using a brush. It is probably 'new' Olive Drab simply painted over the original 'faded' Olive Drab. Even the steering wheel copped it.

The Communications box hanging from the ROPS is of interest. It is obviously an afterthought as the rear secondary horizontal bar on the ROPS has simply been cut, a section removed and the box welded in place. This box is a simpler version of the one installed in my LRPV '323'.

Check out how the SAS boys have crudely 'stitched' together the PSP matting on the side.

Also of interest is the camo scheme not only applied to the vehicle but to the gear and equipment carried. Due to it's 'new look' I presume that the renovation team has 'patch' painted the gear using a paint brush and spray gun. The vehicle scheme also looks a little dubious. I'm not sure if this is authentic or simply applied by a fella with a creative artistic mind. Check out the camo'd SLR sitting in the back.

Anyway, enjoy the photos.

Phoenix · #**210** (**permalink**) 23rd July 2008, 09:23 AM

Nice Pics

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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Tommy K For This Useful Post:
apjmcmahon (21st July 2008), Shonky (20th July 2008)

The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to chazza For This Useful Post:
apjmcmahon (21st July 2008), dolphint (21st July 2008)