Inspirational Bill,
I only hope I can get mine to look that good.

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Paul

1955 SI 107" (Ol' ute)
1998 Disco 1 LS,
2005 Def 90

“It is not the answer that enlightens, but the question.”

G'day Beckett

Congratulations on a very good quality restoration, and to answer your question about the brake hoses, Yes, they are a different hose fitted to Australian Military Landrovers fitted with a raised chassis, the Genuine Part No is RTC-3353 it just happens to be the rear flexible hose fitted to all series Landrovers, if you are short of the inner hub oil seals that should be Repco No P3155, hope that helps

cheers

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68 2a GS 6028D 172-484
Aust No5 trailer 2wheel 1/2 ton Ch 1974=173-489
REMLR No 003

Top work cobber! Looks very nice,

Cheers Charlie

I know this isn;t related to bills build but, i have some metals dags hanging off the rear x , before i grind them off, am trying to work out if it was a step or something
now in the above photo, to the right of the pintle and the left of the lifting ring, there is a bracket of sorts, ??? What is it and is it standard.

thanks.


john


back to bills build very good so far, looks great
a ??? for you, when you had the chassis blasted did you take the steering relay box out, I am trying to get mine out so i can clean up the front, can;t budge it and to boot, the bottom plate that is held on by four bolts, some bugger , probably an army guy, has tacked the edges on, so i have to try and grind them off., just had a though maybe the plate is tacked to the relay as well.




john

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North Coast NSW
96 Discovery 300TDI auto
project 78 HZ 308 wagon aka \'The batmobile\' its going!!
1978 ser FFR the new project
REMLR 253
Got 2 SWB ser 3 now and lots of bits!!
back from the desert for the moment

The relay will be worth taking out John, if only to check that rust hasn't destroyed the chassis cylider around it.

On my Series 1 I turned the chassis upside down and put penetrating fluid on it for about 2 weeks. A heavy hammer and drift eventually got it out. If you can't turn the chassis a trolley jack with a suitable shaft and a chain running under the jack and over the crossmember should be able to put enough pressure on it to encourage movement. Use blocks of wood to protect the chassis and spread the load; you don't want to bend the crossmember. A sharp rap or two with a heavy hammer should encourage the relay to start moving, but patience will be required,

Cheers Charlie

nice work going there bill!

John, my ffr has a step to the right of the pintle as you can see in the photo, and I believe that it was an army modification as it has been there for some time. not sure if there was one on the other side, but I use it all the time. it is just made out of some angle iron. I can find some more photos (or take some) if you like. I'll check the army docs for reference to it as well.

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1981, Series 3 FFR. 33-727 - Grover
1961, Series 2 Ambulance. 108-098 - Eden

Registry of Ex Military Land Rovers Mem. 129
Defence Transport Heritage Tasmania Mem. 12

You know, strictly speaking, throttling the staff is my job

oops!

Hi John, yes my relay was extremely difficult to get out too. all the rust had expanded and held it in. I used an oxy and heated it through the crossmember on either side, then jimmied it out with a couple of pry bars. as chazza said and i found out the crossmember dints easy so put down some wood/steel for reinforcement. I also onbolted both the plate on the chassis and the bottom plate of the relay but this shouldn't be necessary as the don't hold the relay down. hope this helps cheers, Bill.

be a slow arvo for you today bill with all this rain!