G'day apjmcmahon

When you take the head off loosen the head studs from the ends inwards , alternatively, there is a head tightening secquence in the workshop manual, removal is the opposite to tightening that lessens the chance of head warping PM me if you have diffulties.

If the oil on your dipstick is milky, drain the sump and replace it with new 20w-50w oil (cheap stuff will do), as once the motor is restarted and warmed up it would be advisable to drop that oil which removes any water that is retained in the block oil galleries. then refill with good quality oil, (I use Penrite 20w-50w everyday motoring) also before restarting motor replace the oil filter as it will be full of water/oil mix, the replacement filter cartridge is Repco/Ryco Number R2069p.

cheers

__________________
68 2a GS 6028D 172-484
Aust No5 trailer 2wheel 1/2 ton Ch 1974=173-489
REMLR No 003

UncleHo,

Thanks heaps for the advice.
I had to suspend works as my spanners are not matching well with the bolts. Time to find some better tools.

I am expecting workshop manual soon, so waiting seems to be great idea.

Oil does seem very milky, so am assuming head gasket is buggered badly.

Have drained cooling fluid, will drain oil tomorrow.

Thanks again for help.

cheers

Andrew

OK, Latest update

a) Workshop Manual has arrived - so have tightening/untightening sequence.
b) Bullbar is off - better access.
c) various other bits are now off (see photo)

Now stuck as my sparkplug spanner was not big enough

Not far from seeing the inside now



cheers

Andrew

I'm not sure why you feel "stuck" Andrew, the head can come off with the plugs still in it,

Cheers Charlie

That motor looks as if it hasn't had a good spit and polish for quite some time Fingers crossed for the internal examination

__________________
Regards Stuart

174-323 1969 S2A LRPV
175-170 1969 S2A LRPV
178-404 1971 S2A LRPV
172-463 1968 S2A GS/LRPV
178-185 1970 S2A GS
101-527 1964 No.5 'Norforce' Trailer

REMLR Member No - 209

Yes it does look a bit - umm - rough - but heres hoping.

Charlie - I realise that - I wanted to make sure I had before I lifted off - also for best way - for me - to undo head bolts with sockets and can't get enough clearance with spark plugs in - at present - tomorrow is a new day.

cheers

Andrew

Ah yes! Sorry; didn't think about that.

Hope it all goes well,

Cheers Charlie

More updates.
Very excited-Managed to get the head off tonight.

You will see from photos quite a carbon build up inside. some of the water vents look a bit crudded up also.
Interested in your comments on the condition, and the ring marks in the cylinder.
Also notice the third cylinder has different pitting in piston head to other three.

Pity Uncle Ho is offline!!!

cheers

Andrew

Andrew,

There doesn't seem to be any sign of major water damage to the bores/rings, so that must come as a relief. #3 bore/piston may have a problem but it's hard to tell from the pics - it could be water related. #3 combustion chamber looks to have a little rust, but that's very fixable, if the valves and seats are still in good shape.

Is there a ridge at the top of the bore ? If so and you are intending to re-ring the pistons, it's not good practice ignore the ridge.

I don't know what your plans are but if I were you, I'd be checking rings and bearings as well which, while it can be done in situ, is much easier to do with the engine on the bench. If it is needed, you can also do the ridge removal then too.


Jack

Ring marks??

can;t see anything obvious is there a vertical score in a cylinder or , I'll cross my fingers for you, is there obvious crosshatching in each bore.

aside from a very sooty looking exhaust it doesn't look too bad.
a lot of soot and carbon in each pot on the head, although no 3 looks like it has the right colour for the inlet,



john

__________________
North Coast NSW
96 Discovery 300TDI auto
project 78 HZ 308 wagon aka \'The batmobile\' its going!!
1978 ser FFR the new project
REMLR 253
Got 2 SWB ser 3 now and lots of bits!!
back from the desert for the moment