There are also a few 3 terminal voltage stabilizers floating around (part # BMK 1539). The terminals are labelled but basically there is power one end (B ), output to the fuel and temp gauge in the middle (I) and earth (E) at the other end.

I have both types.

The other one has 2 terminals, as pointed out. Don't be confused by the fact that there are 4 'posts' there. 2 'posts' per terminal. You will see that they are joined. One terminal is labelled B (for battery) and the other is I (for instruments). The case has a lug on it that is connected to earth - usually, as mentioned, by being attached at the back of the dash cavity OR attached to the back of the speedo.

The one with the earth terminal is the Series 3 one, which is also the one attached to the speedo. Functionally they are identical, and either can be used, just make sure they are earthed properly.

If using a meter to check operation, be aware that they do not givve a steady 10v, they give an average of 10v by switching power on and off, so you will see an on/off sequence if using a meter. The spacing and duration of the on/off depends on the battery voltage.

John

__________________
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

ok i spent most of today trying to sort out this temp gauge issue.

i re bled the cooling system and unblocked that drain tap in the Engine block.
also check thermostat and tested ok. Top up new coolant i also hooked up a after market temp gauge went for a drive and temp operates between 70-80 degrees. so i assume this is ok.

i removed the instrument panel and blast a bit of air from the compressor to get some of the dust out. pulled off the connectors one at a time sprayed contact cleaner once done gave the back of the panel a coat of Inox. now my dash panel lamps work.

i found the little voltage box for the temp and fuel gauge, it was mounted to the bulkhead (has 4 flat connectors comming out of it. 2 per side), the temp gauge still went up so i fit an aftermarket gauge which i can get a more accurate reading of the temp now.

next weekend ill change plugs, points and set the timing and set fuel mix / idle.

Attached Images

DSC03291.jpg (35.8 KB, 16 views)

__________________
chris1983rangie
LROCV #646
REMLR #250
LRSOC #5368

I Don,t Know if i'm telling you how to suck eggs but tappets should always be adjusted on compression stroke .ie when both inlet & exhaust are closed .Best method is to follow firing order of engine with piston at TDC.You should set them rough when cold (after major work on engine)then reset them after engine up to temp.

2.25 tappets are the same hot or cold, and you will be setting them correctly if you follow the instructions in the manual. But it is worth rechecking them after the engine has run for a few minutes.

John

__________________
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

cool thanks four your help!

i got my manual in the post and folowed the instructions. i then adjust cold and ran the engine and re adjust again after warm.

i adjusted 2 valves at a time after rotating the crankshaft to TDC
2 valves will always open on the cam lobe allowing me to adjust the other 2 that were closed.

i removed spark plugs for ease of turning the crankshaft.

Chris

__________________
chris1983rangie
LROCV #646
REMLR #250
LRSOC #5368

Any one put hardened valves seats in 6 cyl engine to run on unleaded.

cool animation

__________________
chris1983rangie
LROCV #646
REMLR #250
LRSOC #5368

Gives you a better understanding of what is happening when you adjust Tappetts . Notice at TDC on compression stroke inlet & exhaust tappets at bottom of cam lobes this is where tappets are set.

G'day Folks

Now if the Landrover 2.25 litre motor was like that double overhead camshaft, it would have had a whole lot more grunt


In regards to fitting hardened valve seats to a 6 cylinder motor, yes, it can be done, but one would need to totally strip and remove the motor and then take the bare block to a motor engineering firm as they have side valve exhaust valves and the seats need to be inserted into the block, just a whole lot more complicated than an Overhead valve motor, but, I am aware of quite a few Side-Valve Ford V8's that have been converted,as well as more than a few Vintage vehicles,20's through 50's.


cheers

__________________
68 2a GS 6028D 172-484
Aust No5 trailer 2wheel 1/2 ton Ch 1974=173-489
REMLR No 003