No clutch - Page 2

medic455 · #11 (**permalink**) 7th February 2010, 06:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JDNSW

You will probably need a tube spanner to do the nut in the reservoir - don't think I have ever done this! The plastic reservoirs should be available from most suppliers or second hand (the metal ones tend to have rusted out - and, for example, my 2a has had the metal one replaced by plastic in service).

John

Thanks John
A quick trip to Repco and a set of Tube spanners later and all fixed (that bit was eaiser than I thought it was going to be)
Having never replaced a Landy clutch master cylinder before could someone give me some hints on how to go about it. The Haynes manual I have makes it sound soooo easy, but it's looking a little bit more of a challenge..

Peter

UncleHo · #12 (**permalink**) 11th February 2010, 10:38 AM

G'day Medic455

Hey, Peter, did you put new fibre/rubber washers between the nuts and reservoir ? as it will leak otherwise, been there had that happen, all down the firewall

brilliant paint stripper

BTW, the clutch flexible hose is part No RTC-3353, same as the brake hoses on Mil 2a's

cheers

JDNSW · #13 (**permalink**) 11th February 2010, 11:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by medic455

Thanks John
A quick trip to Repco and a set of Tube spanners later and all fixed (that bit was eaiser than I thought it was going to be)
Having never replaced a Landy clutch master cylinder before could someone give me some hints on how to go about it. The Haynes manual I have makes it sound soooo easy, but it's looking a little bit more of a challenge..

Peter

Basically quite easy, but I would definitely go the route of removing the entire pedal assembly - disconnect the reservoir and the line to the slave cylinder (This is likely to be the hard part! Use gland nut spanners, not open end spanners, and if it looks necessary WD40 overnight, and don't be afraid to use a little heat). Six bolts in the toe panel inside, with captive nuts, and the whole assembly comes out, rotating 90 degrees as you lift it out to clear the pedal. Put the assembly in the vice and you can remove the master cylinder without trouble.

I did a blow by blow description for AULRO a couple of years ago - I think it was in the AULROVIAN magazine.

John

medic455 · #14 (**permalink**) 12th February 2010, 11:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JDNSW

Basically quite easy, but I would definitely go the route of removing the entire pedal assembly - disconnect the reservoir and the line to the slave cylinder (This is likely to be the hard part! Use gland nut spanners, not open end spanners, and if it looks necessary WD40 overnight, and don't be afraid to use a little heat). Six bolts in the toe panel inside, with captive nuts, and the whole assembly comes out, rotating 90 degrees as you lift it out to clear the pedal. Put the assembly in the vice and you can remove the master cylinder without trouble.

I did a blow by blow description for AULRO a couple of years ago - I think it was in the AULROVIAN magazine.

John

Thanks again John

I had the reservoir off and in bits(for a bit of a clean up and repaint) so I ended up taking the pedal assembly out to remove the master cylinder, gave every thing a clean and repaint (now the rest of the bits in the engine bay look tired..........

and in need of a repaint.....

..)
Uncle Ho
yep new washers every where I could........

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The Following User Says Thank You to UncleHo For This Useful Post:
medic455 (12th February 2010)

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medic455 (12th February 2010)