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Old 13th December 2009, 04:47 PM
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No clutch

Ok so it’s time to pick the brains of those around here that are more mechanically minded than me. The IIA has lost its clutch, pedal moves freely with not a lot of resistance and there seems to be fluid/oil (more than normal..) all around the slave cylinder, gearbox and floor and very little in the reservoir. My first guess would be that the slave cylinder has given up the ghost (as it had a new clutch fitted less than 12 months ago, at the local RACQ workshop.....).
It seems a fairly straightforward process to replace it and I think I’m going to replace the master cylinder as well.
Firstly am I on the right track with the cause of the problem? And what little traps am I likely to come across during the process?
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Old 13th December 2009, 05:58 PM
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i have always been of the opinon if you change the pressure plate , clutch plate and thurst bearing and the master and slave cyclinders are of the same age change them at the same time
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Old 13th December 2009, 06:10 PM
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yep its the slave OR the joining link on the shafts has let go.
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Old 13th December 2009, 07:07 PM
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As Dave says. Remove the driver's floor and check whether the slave cylinder link has returned - if the link can be moved back and forth, one of the pins in the tube connecting it to the release fork shaft has broken. (This will allow the piston to move too far, hence fluid everywhere). If the link is still rigidly connected to the tube, with no more than a millimetre or so movement, then the slave cylinder has failed.

John
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Old 13th December 2009, 08:04 PM
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Thanks Dave and John
Every thing seems tight with no movement, I guess that it is the slave cylinder, any other hints on any problems that I might find.

Peter
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Old 13th December 2009, 08:11 PM
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yep....

the pins that form up the linkages tend to wear in such a way that they dont come out easy.
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Old 13th December 2009, 08:18 PM
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While you are at it, have a good look at the flexible hose - you may even find it easier to disconnect it at bulkhead and remove the slave cylinder complete with the hose.

I find it easier to work on the slave cylinder with the floor and transmission tunnel removed, but I believe you can do it without removing them, and it may be easier if the floor attachments are rusted up. Although this would be a good excuse to free them up and replace any that need it.

Some suggest that if the slave cylinder needs replacing, then do the master at the same time, and there is a lot to be said for having the cylinders you are installing resleeved with stainless steel.

John
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Old 6th February 2010, 10:23 PM
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So I have my new clutch master and slave cylinders (thanks to somebody on here that runs a ebay landrover parts company out of NSW) and I have been a little slow getting to this what with Xmas and all that.
This afternoon I took the combined Brake/clutch resevior off, man has it had a hard life and now I have a little question...how do I tighten up the nut at the bottom of the clutch internal resevior ?? the tube is only about an inch wide and about4 inches deep (it's an old Landy so I'm going to talk inches) and the conection turns quite eaisly, in giving the resevior a bit of a clean up I think I might have "removed" a bit of somting that was holding it in place from the outside
Or has some one got a spare Brake/clutch resevior that they would like to part with or as an alternative anybody know how to get hold of the plastic type (as shown on LRPV 180-899, page 6 post 52)
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Real landrovers have leaf springs and a canvas top.
NZ Army Series 2a 88\"Skippy\", NZ 32862.
NZ Trailer,GS,1/4 ton
Aust Army Series 3 FFR ARN 29-739
Aust Army Series 3 FFR ARN 29-780
Aust Army Series 3 GS ARN 28-857


Last edited by medic455; 6th February 2010 at 10:49 PM. Reason: added a bit more
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Old 7th February 2010, 05:56 AM
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You will probably need a tube spanner to do the nut in the reservoir - don't think I have ever done this! The plastic reservoirs should be available from most suppliers or second hand (the metal ones tend to have rusted out - and, for example, my 2a has had the metal one replaced by plastic in service).

John
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Old 7th February 2010, 11:23 AM
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When I did mine a few years ago, I prevented the nut from turning by placing a large scredriver down it's side. I also put o-rings under the connections to ensure that they didn't leak.

Aaron.
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