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Thread: series 2a door hinges

  1. #1
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    series 2a door hinges

    Looking for door hinges for both passenger and drivers side for my series 2a must be in good condition with no play. Do I need to replace them or is there something else that can be done?
    Last edited by Lotz-A-Landies; 2nd April 2010 at 12:59 PM.
    Our Land Rover does not leak oil! it just marks its territory.......




  2. #2
    d@rk51d3 Guest
    Wouldn't a new ball & pin kit sort out the slack?

  3. #3
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    not sure looked at those kits but looking at the hinges I dont see how they fit...I.e I cant see anything like it on the original hinges.

    Unless the ball and pin is a modification to improve

    does that make sense?
    Our Land Rover does not leak oil! it just marks its territory.......




  4. #4
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    does anyone have a pic of there hinges with the ball and pin kit on so I can see what it looks like? or does it not look any different.
    Our Land Rover does not leak oil! it just marks its territory.......




  5. #5
    d@rk51d3 Guest
    It's standard for the 2-2a hinges.

    The hinge half on the fire wall has a "well" that the ball sits in. The hinge half on the door has a well the sits over the ball, with the ball forming the pivot point.

    When the pin wears the hole out of round (and the pin probably wears too), you'll get a bit of slop in the doors.

    There are also springs in the 2 hinge halves too, where the pin goes through.





    Sorry about the blurry night time photography.

    If you need better pics, I can bring a hinge set inside and take them again.

  6. #6
    d@rk51d3 Guest
    Here you go:

    Top and bottom hinge (not a matching pair - but we'll use them for arguments sake............. it was dark and scary outside, and the shed has no lights) along with ball, pin, nut, washer and 1 of 2 springs (the other is jammed inside the hinge - just pretend it's out on the table.)



    ......ball goes into cup, and mates to other cup on other hinge.



    Spring is inserted into each hinge, 1 top, 1 bottom (ball in centre).



    Finally, pin is inserted, fitted with locking washer and nut.




    eeeeezzzzzeeeee

  7. #7
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    Mate THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THAT

    Really appreciate the effort you took to go out and take pics...that really helps me understand how that works

    here is one of my hinges I asked Ian why he thought it was wrecked and he said that it just doesn't feel good....

    but for the cost of a pin kit might just do them any way



    Our Land Rover does not leak oil! it just marks its territory.......




  8. #8
    d@rk51d3 Guest
    No worries, just glad I could be of help.


    It really makes an easy job of removing the doors too. Just undo the nut, catch the washer, pull out the pin, (all x2) and lift the door away while catching the balls and springs which then fall out and roll accross the floor....... ( don't forget to release the door stay, on the inside - just under the dash)

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by d@rk51d3 View Post
    No worries, just glad I could be of help.


    It really makes an easy job of removing the doors too. Just undo the nut, catch the washer, pull out the pin, (all x2) and lift the door away while catching the balls and springs which then fall out and roll accross the floor....... (
    don't forget to release the door stay, on the inside - just under the dash
    )

    there is none..the doors blow open and I think in turn that is what has partly wrecked the mudguards
    Our Land Rover does not leak oil! it just marks its territory.......




  10. #10
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    DB the pin kit is usually sufficient.

    What happens is the the bronze ball gets worn in two planes so the northern hemisphere ends up with a step to the southern hemisphere, resulting in the lock that won't mate properly with the catch.

    Diana

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

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