I helped a guy do an 88" a few years ago.
We used the rear air con out of a Sahara HJ 60 Land cruiser. Ducting went along the roof line. The evaporator went behind the 2nd bulkhead . Was all second hand and only needed a new drier and valves for new compliant refrigerent. It worked supriseingly well.
Tony

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Strange Rovers Down Under 4BD1T 120" 110 /3 Rangies:/ 3 series 1's/ 2 series 2's/2 series 3 88's/2
series 3 109's and a heap of rice burners

I can see that it would be nice to have a "cooler" 2a in summer but isn't is a bit like having water proof swimming trunks?
To have a truly effective aircon system the vehicle would have to be draught free and insulated so it didn't lose efficiency.
I wouldn't even bother with it in my '68 2a LWB ute.
The cab is really small and even a Smiths heater (which I would LOVE in these Southern Tablelands winters) would take up leg room.
When summer really kicks in I'll be opening the vents under the windscreen, opening the door glass and opening the sliding rear glass for good flow through.
And if it continues to be too hot I'm losing the roof!

To play along with the concept though, my brother built a beach buggy on a Beetle pan using an old J&S fibreglass body mad in the 70s.
He installed a 2.5l Subaru motor from an Outback and using the stock compressor and an underdash unit it has worked well even though it's a soft top like most buggies are.

Hey

This is something I was thinking of fitting to my 58 Series 2 project, under the left guard or similar.

AIR CON / HEATER UNDER DASH CHEV FORD HOLDEN VALIANT - eBay, Other Car Parts, Accessories, Car Parts, Accessories, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 24-Oct-08 10:17:08 AEST)

Ebay no 380072625087 if link doesnt work

Rich

Have seen ladas with AC also the same system installed in Aeroplanes. Had a black box bout the size of a ream of printer paper with all the fans and stuff in it. Not sure what how they arranged the condensor etc. Keep us posted if you look into it more will also be interested.

I have bought one of them from the same company with the intention of putting it in my 101 - not yet fitted. Is a heater and A/C . Note what you see is all you get so you will then need to buy compressor, reciever dryer, pipes and condensor etc.

Garry

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REMLR 243

98 Freelander XEDI (the Hippo)
1977 FC 101 (Miss Piggy)
1957 Series 1 88" (Baby)
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster

Can anyone tell me if the above units are anything like the MkIV and RRc under-dash units, where they take air from the back of the unit and push it through the condensers?

If Yes, then when fitted in the back of the LH wheel arch they will always be drawing air from the engine bay with all its heat and fumes and pumping that into the cab, not recycling the air in the cab at all. They would need to be boxed over then an air intake vent placed either to the outside or from the the footwell.

Diana

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Why procrastinate today?
When I can put it off until tomorrow!
REMLR-240
2 X 80"
3 X SIIB
3 X RRc
ARN 30-146 SIII FFR
ARN 173-651 No. 5 Trailer

True!

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Andrew
REMLR #269
LROCS #839

1958 Series II SWB *project* ("Gus")
1965 Series IIA Ex-Military Ambulance 113-896 ("Ambrose")

Yes they are - but with some work in making up some trunking they could draw air from the cab or from outside.

Garry

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REMLR 243

98 Freelander XEDI (the Hippo)
1977 FC 101 (Miss Piggy)
1957 Series 1 88" (Baby)
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster

No reason you couldnt install it in the passenger footwell a bit like an early defender. Remember its a heater also so you could then just pipe the vents up to the face level and windscreen. Bingo bango

Would you have the dimensions of the box, Garry? Im wondering if it might fit (or be made to fit) in place of the Series III heater box. Or alternatively in the cubby box with piping up through the inspection port. Maybe even in the space under the inspection hatch and above the drive shaft.

I've been thinking for a long time about A/C for the Stage 1 wagon. Something that could replace the heater box would be the ideal solution, and then existing switchgear could be used - totally disguise the installation.