I have been having some problems with the steering on the 77 Game (Banjo) where there was enough play to make it frankly dangerous to drive. I have replaced all the tie rod ends and had adjusted the steering box. Still too much play so I took it down to my friendly mechanic and they had a look at it. They noticed that the bottom of the steering relay seemed to have some movement in it. So I bought it back and decided to pull the relay out to have a look and it was quite easy to get out and certainly is not a tight fit in the chassis. It seems there is a bit of rust in the tube in the chassis but certainly not enough to have holes or anything.

Is there meant to be any sleeve or some such thing around the relay to make it fit snugly in the chassis? Or do I just have a problem with the chassis that will somehow need to be fixed? If I do what can be done about it?

Thanks,

TimJ.

__________________
"Queen Mary" - 2008 TDV6 HSE D3
"Clancy" - 1978 Series III SWB Game.
"Banjo" - 1977 Series III SWB Game.
"Gumnut" - 1953 Series I 80"
"Bartie" - 1955 Series I 86" (Restoration project)
"Arnie" - 1975 710M Pinzgauer

wait....

you got a series relay box out easily.......


theres something wrong with that in and of itself...

FFS advise your mechanic that the relay box has a bloody huge "Not kidding going to tear your arm off and impale you in the chest with the shaft and head plate" class spring in it.

make a frame to secure the head with, place it in at least a 10t press and undo the head bolts in the press.

I have seen what happens when the mechanic says "Its ok Im only going to loosen them a little and then put it in the press" and loosens off a couple and the last 2 snap..

the term broken fingers in a workshop means you have a clutch plate problem. In an ER room it means no more mechanicing for you for at least 3 weeks.

__________________
Dave

"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
The midlife crisis car
Some D1

For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

Thanks Dave,

Actually the mechanic warned me about that so he does know that . I don't think the relay itself is a problem as I can't spot any play in it so I probably won't pull it apart. The problem is how it sits in the chassis. And yes I was expecting real problems getting it out after what I had read but I got it out by hand with just a little levering with a screwdriver. I think that is the problem, either the chassis has rusted more than it looks or there is some sort of sleeve missing.

TimJ.

__________________
"Queen Mary" - 2008 TDV6 HSE D3
"Clancy" - 1978 Series III SWB Game.
"Banjo" - 1977 Series III SWB Game.
"Gumnut" - 1953 Series I 80"
"Bartie" - 1955 Series I 86" (Restoration project)
"Arnie" - 1975 710M Pinzgauer

Hi Tim,
This may seem an obvious question but when I removed the stearing relay on my 77 game last weekend there is a plate on the bottom of the chassis held with 4 bolts, this is an interfearance fit, maby without this it is allowing the relay to move a bit. or maby there is rust in the relay tube or a fracture, there is alot of force pushed through it with the big game tyres.
Regards

Brendan

Hi Brendan,

That plate is there but I suppose it may not be tight enough. I will have to check tomorrow if it is tight around the relay. I actually stuck the relay in from the bottom (upside down) just to see if it was tight and it was quite sloppy so I think it is definitely a problem with the chassis hole. Things I have read suggest that they should be a pretty tight fit and this has a couple of mm of movement.

TimJ.

__________________
"Queen Mary" - 2008 TDV6 HSE D3
"Clancy" - 1978 Series III SWB Game.
"Banjo" - 1977 Series III SWB Game.
"Gumnut" - 1953 Series I 80"
"Bartie" - 1955 Series I 86" (Restoration project)
"Arnie" - 1975 710M Pinzgauer

Hi Tim,
Hmm sounds like one of those typical land rover problems, maby try a brand new relay if you can lay your hands on one. many years ago my stearing went out of alignment, I thought it was the top stearing arm, but when I pulled it all apart last weekend I noticed the bottom arm had a twist in the splines so will replace it just to be sure. so I learnt what may seem to be the problem may not be the actual cause.
lol live and lean.
Regards and best of luck with the fix

The relay unit is held solid by the bolts at the top, and the plate mentioned on the bottom. The ears on the top have been known to break off the chassis, but if this were the case you would have found it by now. If there has been movement there has probably been wear on both the plate bolted to the chassis and the bottom plate of the relay that it is supposed to keep in place. This means that a new plate will not fix the problem, and you need to replace the bottom plate of the relay as well. I would be inclined rather than to do this, to make a replacement plate (a simple turning job) to fit the relay - turning it if it is out of round.

John

__________________
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

My vote is for a worn or more likely stretched bottom collar. Mine (76 SW has a light weight pressed steel collar from memory that I could imagine streching. I currently have it off actually if you want to have a look or measurements. I'll get some photo's of it for you if your interested.

I would also imaging that if the bottom is that loose however that the top mounts might be a bit flogged as well. A new collar made from a bit of 5mm steel plate would probably be the easiest replacement for the bottom particularly if you don't have access to a lathe to turn one.

I have made a special tool (ST No XXX) for pulling apart the relay if you are northside of Brisbane at all and need to go further.

Cheers
Lakey

Well I found a new plate and a new steering relay. Got the plate today and should have the relay tomorrow. Couldn't see the point of mucking around as I have no access to metal lathes and the new plate was still loose on the old steering relay. Hopefully that will fix it all.

TimJ.

__________________
"Queen Mary" - 2008 TDV6 HSE D3
"Clancy" - 1978 Series III SWB Game.
"Banjo" - 1977 Series III SWB Game.
"Gumnut" - 1953 Series I 80"
"Bartie" - 1955 Series I 86" (Restoration project)
"Arnie" - 1975 710M Pinzgauer

in a pinch you can temporarily use shim stock to secure the bottom of the box in the collar.

__________________
Dave

"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
The midlife crisis car
Some D1

For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.