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Thread: Series 3 Rebuild.

  1. #1
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    Series 3 Rebuild.

    Hi all, I've been reading this forum for a while and have made a few posts, but I feel it's now time to reveal my master plan and get some advice from others who've tried similar.

    I own 2 Series III SWB Landys and a 1993 Discovery 200tdi.

    Here's the details:

    I'm using an existing chassis and replating the bottom of the rear crossmember. It will then be endrusted and repainted as I feel the rust it has makes it not worth while to galvanise it. I've been quoted 95 cents per kg for Galvanising. I've found a nice Chassis in the Eastern states, but it will cost me a grand just to get it to WA!

    I have ordered Parabolic springs and shockies to suit all round. Hangers and shackles will remain standard.

    Diffs will remain standard with bearings, wheel bearings and all unis replaced.

    The Disco 200tdi, turbo, radiator and intercooler will be going in the engine bay. I'm modding the S3 radiator support to fit the radiator and intercooler in the same configuration as the Disco. They will sit slighty higher to clear the steering arm.

    Dual batteries will be moved to the very back of the chassis as I will be fabricating holders to fit underneath the rear of each wheel guard. With a protective fold up plate or a flap in the tub to access them.

    The S3 gearbox is being rebuilt and the transfer case is having a high range conversion which should give me 3000rpm in 4th at 100kph.

    I would like to get rid of the standard fuel tank and put in a station wagon tank at the rear of the chassis. I'm trying to find out if this is possible or if I have to make up something custom. I'm trying to get the space back under the drivers seat, get a larger tank and improve ground clearance as I've been stuck sitting on top of the 16 gallon tank before!

    I already have brand new door bottoms and tops.

    I have obtained a firewall/bulkhead with minimal rust which is being sandblasted then galvanised. I'm investigating fabricating a steel dash similar to the S2 and getting rid of the S3 plastic crap. I will retain the S3 instrument cluster face and mount it in the same position.

    The new paint colour will be Dulux Bronze Olive 32348. Which is easy to get hold of and will be around for a long time as it's used on Colourbond fences.

    I am having untill the end of the financial year off and have the funds ready to go so this will happen a bit faster than the average chassis build up. This is all happening for my wife of course as she grew up on a remote Station with them and would rather have a noisy, uncomfortable slow old S3 SWB rather than the LTD Jeep Cherokee I bought her! After pulling the S3 apart I have really come to apreciate them, a socket set, screw driver set and 3 days at 8 hours a day and your down to a rolling chassis!

    Any comments are appreciated.
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  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by cooper View Post
    Well done,i think you are going to have one neat vehicleParabolics and the correct shocks are the way to go with these, i had them on my swb s3 and what a difference.I'm also in agreement with you on the series2 dash,for me it has to be a metal dash.Keep the pics coming,please.
    having been absolutely amazed by the pics on your "100 inch" thread, I think that is the understatement of the year so far

    Paul

  3. #3
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    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Sounds like a good project, but a couple of comments.

    1. The station wagon tank cannot be fitted to a swb - not enough room. If you make one to fit you will have to do something else with the exhaust - since you are putting batteries behind the wheels, you might find you are running out of room!

    2. Before scrapping the S3 dash for a metal one, check the legalities of it - I also prefer the metal dash, hence why I have a 2a not an S3! (plus I prefer the gearbox and a few other bits as well).

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  4. #4
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    Thanks, some good points, I had not thought about the legalities of changing the dash. I'll give the WA RTA a call.

    As for the exhaust, if it is legal in WA, I might exit it in front of the rear wheel, such as in these photos.

    Geeesus Cooper! The wife and I just checked out your 100'' dash thread. She is drooling. I don't think our finished product is going to be that flash though.
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  5. #5
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    Talking

    the series are so much fun to play with..i just got mine regod on friday & now get to find all the bugs.such as loosing all power at a busy set of lights.my batterys are in the back & i forgot to tighten one of them up it moved & shorted on some metal ,blew the fuse under the dash..sorted that real quick before people started tooting at me,,then got down the road to do what was needed then on way home about three blocks from home i ran out of fuel, fuel gauge is out. this all happened today,,then after the wife had got some fuel for it she followed me home to tell me my brake lights a staying on..when the car is upto normal running temp they stay on its not the switch as its new i'll have a look tomorrow..But you could do what i did with my tanks i cut mine down so they are the same shape as the out riggers & no lower than them..i have some pics on here i will try find them for you..
    But i have to say my power steering is so AWESOME one handed steering in car parks is great easy to park in crowded shopping centres now...

  6. #6
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    you can just see the drivers side tank in this pic..

    P280409_12.40[01].jpg

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by banjo View Post
    you can just see the drivers side tank in this pic..

    P280409_12.40[01].jpg
    Not a bad idea. Do you have to modify the fuel level sender or does it not go down that far in the tank?

    Ive drawn up a tank design to go between the rear axle and rear cross member and worked out I will be able to get at least 79L in there without compromising clearance. I'll have to route the exhaust out in front of the passenger wheel.

  8. #8
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    I've put a series 2 dash on a series three bulkhead as the series 2 one was rusted out. It's a bit fiddly but it's just a matter of cutting away the bulkhead around the s2 dash. You can drill out the spot welds ready to put on the s3 bulkhead. I'll take post some photo's if you like as I haven't welded them together yet. As for legality you've got to retain the demisters.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by TJWA View Post
    Not a bad idea. Do you have to modify the fuel level sender or does it not go down that far in the tank?

    Ive drawn up a tank design to go between the rear axle and rear cross member and worked out I will be able to get at least 79L in there without compromising clearance. I'll have to route the exhaust out in front of the passenger wheel.
    i just put a straight edge across the bottom after cutting & bent the send rod & float.seems to work.

  10. #10
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    Sounds like an awesome project mate, and your right, the series vehicles are really easy to work on, and fairly straight forward to nut out. Best wishes with it.

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