Hi all,

We have decided to rebuild a burned-out Series III we bought. I'll post pics here and hopefully tap a few brains for info as we go.

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Taff has supplied a relatively rust-free and straight body we can use to rebuild her.

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OK, we have the body free of its chassis. Need some non-Bunnings rope, or even some chain, and we can lift her a bit higher and move the chassis out...


Then the hard work starts.

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Awesome to see you got a good LWB body Lane, looks as though you got exactly what you need! You'll find a lot more useful parts in that one than the SWB one I have. Post if you need any other little bits as you progress.

do you still need a ute roof as i have a aspare

__________________
thanks Jono
Skip 1995 D1 disco tdi auto
Tin Worm the lickerish al-sort scat tojo diffs 42" iroks
Modern Times 87 falcon van soon to have au xr6 motor and boost

Thanks TJ and Jono.

No, I don't need a roof thanks Jono, but I'll keep it in mind. I'm happy with the "wagon" ute config I think, but that will be no doubt clearer after I've used it a bit.

What I need now is some advice, more than anything. I need to paint the body, starting with the engine bay, and then put the motor together, so that means all of the electrical and other "soft" parts - dizzy, coil, leads, plugs, carbureter and/or parts to fit, hoses, plus brake master cylinder/booster, and anything else which was under the bonnet and got burned. Engine-bay wiring should be OK from the "new" body. I don't care about originality, I just want reliability and economy.

Questions for anybody who has time, please:

1. What is the paint code for that "wheat yellow" body colour, and where can I get good paint at good prices in Perth?
2. Any advice on dealing with surface rust/pitting to prevent later reoccurrance? I once did a bare-metal restore on an old sedan and had some rust reappear a year or two later. Was very, very, annoyed!
3. Under-body paint options? (tar, etc)
4. Recommended ignition set-up for a Series III (1977) 4 cylinder?
5. Carby options?
6. Also, given that the wiring is almost all off the vehicle, would you replace it by making a new harness or just put it all back, checking and repairing as required? I really don't know how badly wiring deteriorates over 30 years.

Cheers,
Lane.

Slow progress today, and some bad news. The rear end of the chassis is rusty and will need some plate replaced...

Cleaned up the engine bay of the new body, ripped out the after-market cruise control (yes, cruise control!) and various other add-ons including air-conditioning, and started preparing for paint.

The number on the replacement body vehicle is 913251730 - could anybody please tell me what year it might be?

Here is the brake booster set-up on the donor car. I didn't notice the booster before because it was covered in oil and dirt and it hides next to the master cylinder in the corner...

So the set-up is a non-boosted master cylinder on the pedal, from which runs a line to a second master cylinder (sitting beside the first) with a booster attached, from which runs a line to the brakes (single system, not dual).

Is this a standard set-up for Series IIIs?

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LandRoverInShed 015.jpg (33.1 KB, 132 views)

geting their quicker than me itll be on the road in know time

__________________
thanks Jono
Skip 1995 D1 disco tdi auto
Tin Worm the lickerish al-sort scat tojo diffs 42" iroks
Modern Times 87 falcon van soon to have au xr6 motor and boost