Hi everyone!
I have been a memeber for a little while now just researching landrover series 3 beasts and a couple of weeks ago i won a 81 s3 diesel ute on ebay. I have just got it back home today and have had my first real look at it and it is rather surprising for and old site unseen (other than ebay photos) truck. the chassis is free from rust so far and the fire wall, the diesel does run, but only had it going so far to get it on the trailer in brissy and my bro in law managed to get it started, and i havnt had it started yet again today, so i will be studying my manual to see whats going on, but so far i have narrowed it down to the fuel pump cut out lever cable has disconnected from it. (please offer any advice on starting a diesel in the right procedure). This vehicle is a bit strange in it has coil springs helping the orginal leaf springs on the front axel, i have heard of this on the rear but the front is puzzling. Should make for slighty smoother ride i hope. The interior has original head linning (intact but dirty and interior light, not working) and all tear free seats that seem original as well.

My plans are to get it roadworthy and to use it as my daily work vehicle and maybe some wknd local camping and fishing etc,

this is my second s3 as i originally started with a ex mil s3 troopy i converted to 202 with high range transfer case and rewired etc and that wasnt in as good nick chassis wise as this ute. I traded the troopy on a 84 rang rover wich i had for a year but started looking round for a s2 disco diesel or defender, but happened across a 97 80 series landcruiser (It had to many mods to pass up) that i have owned for the last 10 years and have done many more mods on and is my holiday tourer and thus why i dont wanna use it to drive to work and around etc.

I have always missed me old s3 and thats why i took a chance on this ute and so far other than the starting issus am impressed condition wise.

So any tips or hints with the s3 diesel would be greatly appreciated. I have researched one other fellas awsome mods for a s3 diesel but anything else would be great as well. Thanks in advance and enjoy my photos.

well here are a couple of photos from todays adventure.

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welcome to you

there are plenty of other AULROian's up your way My series 3 will be ready for rego very soon


Mrs ho har

__________________
03 RED 130
78 S3 88 'zara'
78 101 FC 'herc' 30-260
63 88 GS 'bessie' 112-290
66 S2a 88 'claire'
69 S2a 109 'jack'
68 109 'charles' 172-447
60 W/shop 'dio' 111-372
78 FFR 29-755
and more to be sold
REMLR 270
SLOw 6 & 7
GCLRO 71

Great Truck. I am currently restoring the same vehicle so it is good to see more diesels being saved.

Looks to have promise. The coil helper springs will be to carry the weight of the dirty great winch on the front bumper - unless you need that I would remove it and sell to help the restoration - it will improve performance and steering!

I would be inclined to have a very good look at the hose from the air cleaner to the intake manifold - the last thing you want is for it to be letting dust in. I would also be inclined to find a correct oil filler cap - this is also an engine breather, and without the two breathers (that and the one on the rocker cover) crankcase ventilation will not be very good, and you are likely to end up with condensation inside the engine, which will not do anything any good.

As far as starting that engine goes, the correct procedure (in your climate) is to ensure it is in neutral and operate the starter by turning the key. Should start immediately. If it has been run out of fuel or the filters changed, the fuel system will need bleeding. Stopping is by pulling the engine stop knob, which you say is disconnected.

In my experience the interior light rarely works - look for burnt out wires due to their rubbing through the insulation - vibration is a problem with that engine, particularly idling cold or if the idling speed is set too low.

John

__________________
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

thanks JDNSW, if the stop knob cable has come off the stop lever would it be keeping the engine shut down when i try to start it ?

and yes i deffinantly was going to remove the winch and sell it on, any ideas what it might be worth?

the winch is worth nothing, send it up to me COD.

check the glow plugs for voltibars, if you have the current limiting resistor up on the fire wall you can get away with bypassing one of the glow plugs, rememebr the glowplugs hook up in series and a 3v units.

to start if you push both levers on the pump unit down as far as they will go then you are in the full fuel position. the upper most lever is the fuel control lever (thats not its proper name but it'll do for now) and the lower lever is the fuel cut off control.

there are 2 3/8th bleeder nuts on the front side of the injector pump crack both of these while operating the priming lever on the fuel pump to bleed the fuel system

they will start without glowing even in the coldest of weather but it takes a looooot of cranking.

__________________
Dave

"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
The midlife crisis car
Some D1

For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

Well,

I used to have one of these series in pretty much the same config. Now on my brother in law's farm and I drive a defender.
Things to consider
- put an oil flush through the engine if the oil is the usual crook looking stuff and don't forget the oil bath air cleaner.
- I changed to the later style glow plugs as the old ones were not very effective when really cold. Also you don't loose all of them when one fails.
- top speed is about 55mph with lots of noise but 50 was good on the flat.
- if it is a 3 main crankshaft don't over rev it. it gets expensive.
- I rebuilt my engine after a crank failure eastbound coming out of bathurst on a long climb with a good load on the back.
- the postal service gets bits from the UK in about a week. Compare prices as the old stuff is getting expensive.
- my springs were pretty well siezed so stripped and cleaned with a LITTLE molly grease. Got rid of a lot of rattles and bangs.
- change all the other oils to reduce corrosion.
- keep the brake adjustments up and they work reasonably well. Mine didn't have the power assistance mod.

Hope this helps.

thanks for all the advice guys.
I have since been looking it over and have found it doesnt have the butterfly vacum service on it so it must have the rotary exhauster somewhere, but where is that located? i have a onwer workshop manual but it doesnt show its location. the vacum pipe from the breaks is just sitting freely near the heater box so i assume its in there somewhere perhaps but nothing in that area resembles the exploded pic in the manual.

If the vac pipe is disconnected, someone may have removed the butterfly. Whatever you do don't reinstall it!

ok i wasnt going to reinstall the vac pipe to the butterfly but i still need a vac source for the brakes wont I from the rotary exhauster if it has one?

also update i got the horn to work and the interior light does work when a bulb is placed in it and it is surprisingly bright.