Thread: starting series 1 restoration

Originally Posted by schmierer LR at singleton

well 9hours work today on it and i only have a few little bits left to do on a couple of the wings. then i have to finishing welding a couple of bits but should have that all done by mid day tomorrow ready to paint it a few questions
1.what can i use to wipe the chassis before i paint it can you give me a few suggestions in case i dont have some of the stuff to do it
2.what colour paint is the firewall
3.is it ok if i do the first coat on the firewall with the chassis paint i am using i have 4L of it
thanks Tony

1. Prepsol
2. same as body colour , always.
3. paint is paint, as long as the preparation is done properly, it will do.

ok these next few pages are going to be of my diff assembly that i did today this took me about 3 hours to do which includes cleaning it and preparing it which includes some disassembly as you will see,i am quite happy of it so i hope you guys will enjoy and i hope this will help a few people

hitting out both bearing cups with a long punch minding the shims on the one that sits in the middle


polishing up the faces

using a file to get rid of any burrs on the faces

pulling the bearing off the pinion using a hydraulic puller?

the 4 shims the 2 cups with the jigs made up on the lathe for pressing them in so it doesnt not ruin the bearing


pressing in the top bearing cup

the lower bearing cup pressed in


pressing the bearing onto the pinion

putting oil on thrust washer and where the sun gears sit

put in the sun gears
note: when putting in the smaller sun gears place them opposite on the open sides then spin around until they are in there place,check to see whether the spindle will go through if not start again moving one of the smaller sun gears a tooth at a time until you get it to line up.

pushed the spindle through and put the split pin in the other side make sure it is a tight fit the split pin that is

put the crown wheel on by starting it with 4 bolts and then putting them all in and starting them to make sure that they all work and that there are no bad threads.the original 4 bolts that were started were done up tight


starting with one of the bolts that i did not do up tight,put loctite on and did it up by hand until it was tight then used the torque wrench
marked each bolt when done to keep track of where i was at.did the bolts up in an alternate pattern

done

when pressing the bearing on this way make sure that you are not resting it on the crown wheel but on the 2 flat spots near the bolts

now getting the preload took a bit of fiddling as the shims that came off it were not enough so had to pack another few in until we got it right,also had to swap the driving flange with another one there as the original one had been flogged out

line the 2 bolts up and slowly do them up making sure that you get the right cup on the right side these should be marked accordenly.


do the bolts up a fair way then check the backlash with a dial indicator.this can take a bit of fiddling


i will get the rest up tomorrow my photobucket is playing up