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Thread: 109" IIa Front Brake Cylinder Configuration?

  1. #1
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    109" IIa Front Brake Cylinder Configuration?

    Hi all,

    After much fruitless searching, I now resort to asking on the forum...

    My father and I are slowly restoring a '67 IIa ex-mil LWB - we came to the front brakes and are now left scratching our heads. The multiple repair manuals we have, all suggest there are 2 slave cylinders per side for the front brakes - this is what the vehicle currently has, however the lower cylinder on both sides is only bolted onto the hub and nothing else, so isn't actually do anything other than having the show sitting in them.

    How is this lower cylinder meant to be connected to hydraulics? I have failed to even find an exploded diagram showing it!

    If anyone could be so kind to upload a photo that would probably be even more helpful.

    I shudder to think how long it has been driving like this for by the previous owners - can't imagine braking performance has been too great with it how it is at the moment!

    Thanks

    Seano

  2. #2
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    theres a horseshoe shaped pipe that connects the upper cylinder to the lower cylinder.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

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  3. #3
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    That's pretty well along the lines of what I was thinking would be the case.

    Will have another search of parts sites tomorrow and/or make a few calls now I know what I'm looking for!

    Thanks a lot Dave.

    Seano

  4. #4
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    Seano

    You have been driving around using only one front shoe on each side, the other shoe was doing nothing.

    The front brakes are a nightmare to get the air out because the air wants to rise up the the top cylinder. Some of the early f/c had a hose bracket on the seal retainer (the same as SIII). The brake pipe then went from the bracket to the bottom cylinder, then a second pipe went from the bottom cylinder to the top cylinder and the bleed nipple was on the top cylinder.

    Not sure of the reason why Rover changed it in the later vehicles.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies View Post
    Seano

    You have been driving around using only one front shoe on each side, the other shoe was doing nothing.

    The front brakes are a nightmare to get the air out because the air wants to rise up the the top cylinder. Some of the early f/c had a hose bracket on the seal retainer (the same as SIII). The brake pipe then went from the bracket to the bottom cylinder, then a second pipe went from the bottom cylinder to the top cylinder and the bleed nipple was on the top cylinder.

    Not sure of the reason why Rover changed it in the later vehicles.

    Perhaps I wasn't clear enough in my original post... I haven't been driving it anywhere, hence why I said I shudder to think how long the previous owners drove it like it is at the moment! I realise full well the other shoe may as well be decoration for all it would do how it is now.
    Last edited by seano87; 7th January 2011 at 12:03 PM. Reason: To be slightly more "correct" - they're shoes, not pads!

  6. #6
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    Hi

    You should be able to navigate to >> this << link to see a picture (and a price) for the pipes.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by drifter View Post
    Hi

    You should be able to navigate to >> this << link to see a picture (and a price) for the pipes.
    You sir, are a champion.

    This forum really is made great by its people.

  8. #8
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    Seano



    This is how I re-plumbed my front brakes to try to get good bleeding effort, with the bleed screw re-positioned at the top wheel cylinder. The bleeder is a little camouflaged, but you can just make it out.

    If you're doing new brake lines, you might want to consider this arrangement.
    I used to be indecisive, but now I'm not so sure.

    1971 Landrover S2A Station Wagon
    1917 Model T Ford Lt Ptl Car (under restoration)
    1953 Austin Champ (under restoration)

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by JackM View Post
    This is how I re-plumbed my front brakes to try to get good bleeding effort, with the bleed screw re-positioned at the top wheel cylinder. The bleeder is a little camouflaged, but you can just make it out.

    If you're doing new brake lines, you might want to consider this arrangement.
    I'm taking it that the little brackety thing was a home-made job, and isn't commercially available?

    It looks like something very similar to what Diana was describing a couple of posts back.

    Peter

  10. #10
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    Yup - just a piece of angle iron, with a small u bolt securing the flexible hose.

    It does sound similar to the description Diana gave for the FCs.
    I used to be indecisive, but now I'm not so sure.

    1971 Landrover S2A Station Wagon
    1917 Model T Ford Lt Ptl Car (under restoration)
    1953 Austin Champ (under restoration)

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