Thread: Early type swivel - convert to Railko?

Hi Warb,

If you are talking about converting to a Railko bush rather than the brass cone then that can be done without moving the steering to the bottom. I recently did this on my Series 1. You need to drill out a pin and press out the splined rod from the steering arm and press back in the one to suit the Railko. You also need to press the brass cone out of the swivel ball and put in the Railko bush housing. Not too hard if you have a press, harder without but you might be able to do it in a vice for some and use a hammer to drive out the rest. All the other parts are the same so you might need to replace the lower bearing and the swivel seals as well.

Cheers,

TimJ.

That would sound like what I need to do, and far more helpful than the parts suppliers "you need to convert to the later system" with no more details or instructions!

Thanks!

Originally Posted by Warb

That would sound like what I need to do, and far more helpful than the parts suppliers "you need to convert to the later system" with no more details or instructions!

Thanks!

this should make it easier!

Originally Posted by fc110

this should make it easier!

It certainly does!!! Thanks!

Reading the instructions posted above, I can't see any reference to lubricating the new Railko bush. Should the new bush be lubricated on assembly? And if so, is the recommendation to use grease, or the normal oil (or "One Shot" liquid grease) that is used in the swivel housing? I would have thought that lubrication would make a difference to the rotation of the bearing, which is important given the need to shim to a particular resistance........

Warb

You shouldn't be using one shot grease in the swivel unless you have a scored chrome ball that won't hold oil any more, and even then it should only be a temporary fix until you replace the chrome ball and seal.

If you're doing the Railko conversion then you may as well finish the job completely.

The reason that you don't use grease or semi-fluid grease is that it doesn't splash around and lubricate as well as oil. Both the uni-joint and particularly the railko are lubricated by the splashing oil running into the joint/bush and the thicker the lubricant the less it gets in.

Regular grease is sufficient for the initial assembly.

N.B. If you have F/W hubs, you also need to engage them frequently to get the lubricant splashing around to lubricate the Railko.

Diana

I haven't decided what to use in the swivels, I've seen a great deal of contradictory advice..... I also have a couple of bags of the BritPart "One Shot" equivalent (freebies!), and to be honest it is only marginally more viscous than a normal "heavy" oil - at room temperature it clings but self levels. I'd guess it is much the same viscosity as the OO(O?) grade semi-fluid that I use in one of my slasher gearboxes, and that splash lubricates without a problem. In a supposedly (what happened to summer?) hot climate I'm not sure it's thick enough to cause a problem...

However, this vehicle is getting all new swivels, bearings, seals etc., so if any LR can keep it's fluids in, it should be this one! I have both One-Shot and EP90 to hand, and sooner or later I'll have to choose!

But on your advice I'll assemble and shim with grease in the Railko.

Hi Warb

Penrite used to advertise their brand of one shot "Semi-Fluid Grease" as the recommended lubricant for Series Land Rover swivels however they discontinued that recommendation in about 2007 in favour of their brand of 90EP gear oil "Mild EP".

I have no knowledge of the reason behind the change suffice to say, if an oil company changes a recommended lubricant, you can be sure there is a reason.

Diana