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Series II and IIA Chat specifically relating to Series II and IIA leaf sprung series Land Rovers and variations.

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Old 13th July 2009, 12:15 PM
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Seals on Rear Axle

G'day! I have ordered new bearings for the rear of my SIIa and just wanted to confirm couple of things before I embark on replacing them.

On the rear axle of my vehicle, I have fluid leaking from around the Dust cap. Now, I believe the oil from the diff is supposed to lubricate the inner and outer bearings although grease is advised upon initial installation.

In looking at diagrams of the rear axle, it seems as though there are only a couple of things that could possibly keep oil from escaping from the Dust Cap. These are the Felt Rubber seals which goes between the hub member and the washer underneath the castellated nut.........and the hub member gasket.

So, I really have two questions:
- I am going to be replacing everything from the oil sleeve seal (against the hub sleeve) to the dust cap. Should I expect that replacing this will fix my problem? Should I use any gasket sealant between any of these pieces?

-The inner bearing has an oil seal. As this is outboard of the inner bearing, the inner bearing can get lubricated from the diff. However, how does the outer wheel bearing get lubricated as it is outboard of the seal for the inner bearing?

Ok, I will ask a third question--Is there anything I need to look out for when doing this (like how to remove the hub sleeve oil seal?)

Cheers, Ronnie
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Old 13th July 2009, 02:30 PM
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On the 2a (and 2 and 3) there is free communication from the diff along the axle to the drive flange and then back through the bearings (outer then inner) to the seal on the inside of the hub. The seals that keep the oil in are this seal, the paper gasket under the drive flange, and the felt/rubber seal on the axle shaft under the nut and washer attaching it to the flange. All should be replaced when doing the bearings. Also note that the effectiveness of the main seal is dependent on the state of the sleeve it runs on on the stub axle. It is quite possible this will need replacing, and if you remove the stub axle to do this you should also replace the paper gasket at this joint. Nowhere, in my view, is any extra sealant indicated, although sometimes I have used gasket cement to ensure the hub cap stays on.. Paper gaskets should have a light coating of grease on one side, and all sealing surfaces must be free from burrs and dirt.

Also check the axle breather as if this is blocked you will get leaks. In my experience, leaking under the hubcap is likely to indicate loose bearings. Another indicator for this is leakage under the drive flange and if these bolts keep coming loose. Do not overtighten the flange bolts, as removing the broken bit will not be easy, and they are often stretched as a result of overtightening, which may also lead to their coming loose as they no longer fill the hole, allowing movement.

John
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Old 13th July 2009, 03:30 PM
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John,
Thanks as always!

The LR manual states that the hub bearing is a press fit into the hub. Does this mean I will need to take it and have it pressed into the hub? It looks like the same goes for the distance piece?

I dont really have access to a press, so hoping I am just reading this wrong.....

Cheers,
Ronnie
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Old 13th July 2009, 03:38 PM
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The bearings can be gently tapped into place with a drift and a hammer.
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Old 13th July 2009, 03:40 PM
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G'day All, Knock out the old outer part of the bearing using a steel drift, put the new one in with a brass drift, tap it gently and evenly around the circumference of the cup (outer part of the bearing is called a cup) when it has started to go down evenly hit it a tad harder not that hard to seat it in one hit, when right down tap right around the circumference of the cup to make sure it's down hope that helps cheers Dennis
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Old 13th July 2009, 03:52 PM
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Thanks Ray! I do have a brass drift, so I will use this to carefully install the bearings and the distance piece.

Good luck to me!
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Old 14th July 2009, 08:32 AM
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Just to throw a spanner in the works I don't recommend brass for drifting in bearings!

This is because brass work hardens quickly and easily and will chip on its end which will result in lumps of brass inside the bearing.

I prefer to use a piece of 25mm aluminium for drifting and sometimes even a steel drift if it only need gentle taps. Make sure any drift has the end nicely squared either by filing or turning in a lathe.

Pressing is often the best option and simple small presses can be made using a truck jack and some sturdy pieces of steel. My press is only 800mm high and does quite a few jobs,

Cheers Charlie
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Old 14th July 2009, 08:51 AM
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G'day All, Maybe I should have worded it clearer, wipe the cup over after finishing, that way no chips will get into the bearing, gee Chazza aluminium bar must be cheap over in WA, I only use for machining purposes, because of the cost anyway I'm sure N/guy will work it out cheers Dennis
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Old 14th July 2009, 10:00 AM
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Thanks guys! I'll post with some details when I have completed this next task.

I have also noticed that when I was adjusting the brakes that the rear wheels never actually spun freely. That is they always caused the front and rear prop shaft to turn. There is certainly a bit of a binding feel when I do this which made adjusting the brakes a bit touchy.

Should this be how the system operates or is this binding/tightness something I need to be looking into?

Cheers,
Ronnie
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Old 14th July 2009, 11:10 AM
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do not be suprised if it still leaks after everything has been replaced - it is a LandRover remember

Read you manual carefully as to how the break shoes are to be installed - I messed mine up the first time because I didn't read the manual, all fixed now though.
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