Thread: Rubber buffers

There are three or four different types of buffers that have been fitted - I suggest a search on the forum will find an extended discussion on the subject fairly recently. It may be you have got the wrong type for the holes in your bonnet. (Not sure whether it was in the Series 3 or 2a forums)

John

The correct buffers are very hard to get.

Series II & IIa have the rubber buffer held in place with a 2BA screw & nut plus a couple of big washers.
Series III has a steel plate bonded on the back and a small stud that fits through the hole and a nut is fitted. I think it was 10-32 UNF.

Found some correct Series III ones in the UK but they were a crazy price.
Here MRC5627 BONNET SPARE WHEEL MOUNTING RUBBER | shop | www.lrseries.com but at 50 GBP they can keep them.....

Here's the earlier one 336473 BONNET SPARE WHEEL BUFFER | shop | www.lrseries.com no longer available.

Here's some on Ebay from Blanchard http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Genuine-L...-/141484411370


Colin

Does anyone know of a substitute product instead of these overpriced genuine rubbers. I was thinking something along the lines of a bath plug with a countersunk bolt through it. however i think that would be too soft. Probably should just go to the rubber shop and see what they have??

If I were not lucky enough to have them, I would get an offcut of insertion rubber of suitable thickness, and cut to the required size - a hole saw might work, or cut roughly to size and drill a hole in the centre and get it round by attaching it to a bolt and holding it against a grinding wheel. The recess for the bolt hole is probably best made by a second layer with a large hole made with a wad punch glued to the other one, perhaps with araldite.

John

Originally Posted by JDNSW

If I were not lucky enough to have them, I would get an offcut of insertion rubber of suitable thickness, and cut to the required size - a hole saw might work, or cut roughly to size and drill a hole in the centre and get it round by attaching it to a bolt and holding it against a grinding wheel. The recess for the bolt hole is probably best made by a second layer with a large hole made with a wad punch glued to the other one, perhaps with araldite.

John

So you're saying, use something else until you get rich enough AND the stop gaps annoy you enough to make the switch

Originally Posted by Ben_Burdett

Does anyone know of a substitute product instead of these overpriced genuine rubbers. I was thinking something along the lines of a bath plug with a countersunk bolt through it. however i think that would be too soft. Probably should just go to the rubber shop and see what they have??

Tried Clark Rubber and door buffers are too small a diameter (plus they need to be cut down) but I did get some thick insertion rubber from their offcut bin.
I found a piece of rubber there that looked like it had been cut with a power fretsaw, I might have a try at the local woodwork club and see how it cuts.
Another option is to freeze the rubber before cutting/machining.

I also found casting rubber (polyurethane) but you'd need to make a mould. The company is in Dandenong near where I work so I may drop in and ask a few questions.
A 1kg pack was $40 and once mixed it starts to set so you'd either need a multi cavity mould or mix very small quantities and make one at a time.

Manufacturers and supplier of plastic products. Liquid plastic supplies


Colin

Originally Posted by gromit

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Another option is to freeze the rubber before cutting/machining.
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Colin

Yes; I have not tried it, but I understand rubber that has spent the night in the freezer actually turns very well in a lathe. Use sharp HSS tools not carbide tipped ones, and a high speed and light cut.

John

I've heard of sugru but have no experience of it https://sugru.com/about

Might work out a bit expensive but looks like a useful product.


Colin