Thread: Rear main bearing oil seal

Hi all ... Can I get Silicon grease MS4 and Hylomar PL32M in Australia to put the rear main bearing and oil seal together, or what is the equivalent

depends on how you gasket and oring them.

generally..

all bolts want 243 on them
all bolts with shanks want copper coat or silver antisieze on the shanks and loctite on the threads
all paper only gaskets want hylomar #3 on them
paper only gaskets can usually be replaced with

• stag
• atv blue/grey/black/orange (depending on location)
• loctite 515
• formagasket

metal gaskets that are not head gaskets will want antiseize or coppercoat on them unless they are sealing a water jacket then they want hylomar or stag
rubber oring seals usually want rubber grease or a thin smear of engine oil/compatible grease
high temp nuts and bolts that are not on the exhaust or are under more stress than normal nuts and bolts get 262
exhaust bolts and flanges and threads get copper coat and if you can get them use copper nuts with a belview or wafer washer
Stag goes on knock in welch plugs
loctite 567 goes on all threads that seal a fluid with the possible exception of the larger conduit thread fittings in the head for the cooling system, you can use stag on these.
the sump gasket depending on which type you get goes in with a smear of

• hylomar
• atv blue
• rubber grease/engine oil

depending on how hard you want to make getting the sump off, how leak proof you want it to be and if you want to be able to reuse the gasket later.

While you have it apart if you can get the stiffener plate from a diesel of the same vintage and the studs/bolts to fit it up, do that too.

Dont forget to pay a lot of attention to the dizzy, theres bits in there that need to be oiled up and serviced as part of/prior to assembly.

pack the oil pump with vaseline before you put it in.

DONT let any oil get behind the bearing shells when you assemble the rods.

DONT skimp the assembly lube when you put the gudgeons and little ends together

make sure when you put the circlips for the gudgeons in you pay very very close attention and make sure the square edge of the circlip is facing outwards.

piston ring groove cleanliness prior to installation is important.

DONT forget to gap check the rings prior to installing them to the piston, check each ring in its assigned bore and dont mix them up.

always off set the ring gaps, use 120 degree seperation but try to avoid putting a ring gap directly above the gudgeon or perpendicular to it.

when installing the cam oil the lobes, then wrap them in electrical tape so you dont damage the bearings on the way in with the camshaft getting it offs a pain BUT it beats being worried about did you just stuff the bearings.

Dont forget to to the crank thrust check,

Dont reuse knock over locking tab fixings, even when you put the new ones in, loctite.

you dont need to tie wire the cam roller guide retainer bolts in you can just loctite 262 them, if your going to lock wire remember the wire must pull in the direction of updo.

loctite 262 for the flywheel bolts.

double check the locating dowl. same for the ones for the clutch, dummy fit the pressure plate to make sure it all fits up and sits home nicely without the friction plate in first. nothing worse than trying to tighten up the last bolt on the clutch just to realise, nope, its not tapped all the way through or the threads galled.

buff the fly wheel before you put the clutch on, do not be stingy with the brake clean and compressed air, ditto the pressure plate

you did remember to soak the spigot bearing prior to replacement right?

split washers should not be reused.

Throw out bearing.. and its carrier....

clutch fork pivot.

install the thermostat bypass hose before you put the housing onto the thermostat mounting casting Dont forget the hose clamps. when you put the housing together pre assemble the bit the hose goes on onto the main body let it cure up then coat the head face with hylomar, coat one side of the gasket with hylomar, install the main body to the head, use the hose to hold it, slide the bolts in and then put the gasket in so the hylomar face is towards the housing.

if you think you're about to do something stupid but cant put your finger on it. Stop step back and walk yourself through the last 10 things you did, what you're about to do and the next ten steps after. IF you cant remember all of that inspect your previous work, then re read the manual.



that should keep you out of mischeif for a little while.



have a good run at it.

and yes, contact me anytime you need it.