Geoden, that is a great invention. Not having your ability I bought the following. SWMBO would never help me either, I could not put up with the "are you finished yet, I have things to do"
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Necessity is the Mother of Invention. Mother declined to help as she refused to sit on the petrol tank to pump the brake pedal.
It comprises a generic reservoir cap ( a well stocked Clutch & Brake shop should have them) that has been drilled & had a tubeless tyre valve pulled thru it, two of the hoses from those cheap & nasty footpumps that always seem to breed in dark corners and a good length of hose.
The generic cap fits on the reservoir:
T'other end attaches to the wheel where you are bleeding. OK OK it leaks like a sieve but with 40psi at the wheel, there is enough left over to push fluid out when you unscrew the bleed valve.
It was OK to get me half a pedal & when the seats are in we will chase the other half.
OTOH, it got me a perfect clutch pedal in 60 seconds!
Last edited by geodon; 16th May 2012 at 02:39 PM. Reason: left out a photo!
Geoden, that is a great invention. Not having your ability I bought the following. SWMBO would never help me either, I could not put up with the "are you finished yet, I have things to do"
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98 Defender 110 tdi Boomer
Another lurk to prevent blowing up the reservoir is to use an old BBQ pressure regulator on compressed air, they are set at around 0.25 psi from memory, safe for all reservoirs.
Tonic, thnx for the accolade!
I have used one of those kits. You are totally at the mercy of that one-way valve. They are not too reliable.
I find this method preferable & while slower than pressurising, it's "one-man" and dirt cheap:
That's a 60ml disposable syringem (get them at a pharmacy or animal feed store) and a close fitting braided plastic tube. What you do in suck out the flluid until it comes out bubble free.
Nonetheless, having an assistant pumping up pressure then release it at the bleed valve is still the most positive way to expell air IMHO.
Do any of these inventions really work. Because if they do my old IIA has no brakes. The only brakes I have are after 3 pumps of the pedal and you get some brakes. We've bled the brakes the conventional way and we've checked for leaks and we've re-done all the brake cylinders and rubbers and adjusted the snail cams. So is there a special way to bleed series brakes because it can be a bit scary without them.
I took my 2A down to the local Brakes Plus joint. For about 35-40 clams they pressue flushed the system, new fluid (obviously) and adjusted the brakes. I admit this was over 12 months ago, so the figures might have changed, but it solved the "Series brake bleeding issue".
I've got one of these somewhere Brake Bleed Kit - Car Parts Direct but don't use it.
I normally use my 10 year old son on the pedal. He's helped with a Ford Territory, Series 1 & Defender brakes and Series 2 & Series 3 clutch so far this year.
Colin
'56 Series 1 with homemade welder
'65 Series IIa Dormobile
'70 SIIa GS
'76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
'81 SIII FFR
'95 Defender Tanami
Motorcycles :-
Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650
Hmmmmm!
Pardon my ignorance but going by the comments & interest, is there an endemic problem re bleeding 2A brakes? Are they prone to being hard to bleed??
It appears manufacturers still stuff up. A mechanic I was speaking to told me he had to de-mount a new Mini's clutch slave cylinder, hold it upside down to bleed it then re-mount it. He claimed the bleeder valve was put in the wrong spot! So much for Teutonic Efficiency!
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