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Thread: 217354 bush for front stub axle

  1. #1
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    217354 bush for front stub axle

    I've just removed one of the front stub axles on my Series 3 and found that there is no bush fitted (although it's machined out for a bush).
    I've been told that the bush wasn't fitted on the Series 3, is this correct ?

    In my Series 2 parts manual it states "217354 Bush for driving shaft. Early type stub axle" which sounds like maybe not fitted to Series 3 might be correct.

    Because the vehicle is a bitsa I'm not sure whether bushes should be fitted or not. Because the stub axle is machined for a bush should it have a bush ??


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

  2. #2
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    Colin, is this the bush that the inner hub oil seal seats on?
    A photo of your stub axle would be handy.

    As I recall, the "Early type stub axle" was fitted with a replacable bush (which required heating to fit) but from Series III onwards the area that the seal ran on was machined as part of the stub axle. If damaged, you either speedie sleeved it or (IMHO and a better/easier alternative albeit at a slightly higher cost) replaced the entire stub axle.

    If the seal surface is not too far gone it may be salvagable by an hour or so's work with some wet & dry sanding and then using and strategically fitting one of the double lipped oil seals.
    Roger


  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xtreme View Post
    Colin, is this the bush that the inner hub oil seal seats on?
    A photo of your stub axle would be handy.

    As I recall, the "Early type stub axle" was fitted with a replacable bush (which required heating to fit) but from Series III onwards the area that the seal ran on was machined as part of the stub axle. If damaged, you either speedie sleeved it or (IMHO and a better/easier alternative albeit at a slightly higher cost) replaced the entire stub axle.

    If the seal surface is not too far gone it may be salvagable by an hour or so's work with some wet & dry sanding and then using and strategically fitting one of the double lipped oil seals.
    No, the bush is the one inside the stub axle that the drive shaft sits in (or doesn't in the case of an S3 ?)

    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

  4. #4
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    The Father-in-law was visting the other day and we were discussing the missing bush.
    He thinks that the shaft being supported in 3 places (the drive flange, the 217354 bush and the roller bearing) would create problems unless there is some end float in the universal joint (sideways play once the cups are installed).
    I'll have to check my parts manual to see if the driveshaft UJ was a different part number to the propshaft UJ, thinking about it one is sealed and one isn't so they will be different numbers.

    A propshaft UJ has no endfloat, maybe changing to a common UJ meant that the bush wasn't needed (or could cause problems if fitted ?).
    The bush seems to be difficult to obtain, I found a company in the UK that makes them but at 20GBP each.......

    I've also hit another problem with using a propshaft UJ for the driveshaft but I'll save that for another thread.


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

  5. #5
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    I think the bush was simply omitted because it was found that no problems resulted from running without one. Unless being a real stickler for period accuracy, I would simply not worry about it being missing. If you are worried, making one should be a simple turning job, able to be undertaken by any engineering firm or amateur with a lathe.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  6. #6
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    I've been using a later stub axle without a bush for years . It is impossible to fit a bush to these. If I remember rightly that end of the stub axle has no step but has a slight taper to allow more movement of the stub shaft without touching it. The bush is a standard engineering item and should be available from any good bearing shop. W.
    Last edited by B.S.F.; 3rd January 2013 at 09:17 AM. Reason: more information

  7. #7
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    I just had a look at an old stub axle. There is no step.I'm sorry I should have checked before I posted. W.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by B.S.F.Nut View Post
    I've been using a later stub axle without a bush for years . It is impossible to fit a bush to these. If I remember rightly that end of the stub axle has no step but has a slight taper to allow more movement of the stub shaft without touching it. The bush is a standard engineering item and should be available from any good bearing shop. W.
    Unfortunately the bush isn't available, I've tried.
    It's sintered and thin wall, I could match the OD or ID but not both and they were longer than needed.
    I did consider buying one with the correct ID, fitting on an expanding spigot & machining the OD then machining to length.

    The vehicle I'm working on has a recess for the bush in one stub axle but not in the other stub axle (mix of parts over the years). Seems the bush was dropped during 2A anyway.
    I do know the whereabouts of 2 NOS bushes at a reasonable price if anyone desperately needs them.


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by gromit View Post
    Unfortunately the bush isn't available, I've tried.
    It's sintered and thin wall, I could match the OD or ID but not both and they were longer than needed.
    I did consider buying one with the correct ID, fitting on an expanding spigot & machining the OD then machining to length.

    The vehicle I'm working on has a recess for the bush in one stub axle but not in the other stub axle (mix of parts over the years). Seems the bush was dropped during 2A anyway.
    I do know the whereabouts of 2 NOS bushes at a reasonable price if anyone desperately needs them.


    Colin
    I think those bushes were originally for locating the Traka joints in the 80".
    If fitted up nicely with U/J's they may save the spline for a bit longer in the driving flange.
    .

  10. #10
    JDNSW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wrinklearthur View Post
    I think those bushes were originally for locating the Traka joints in the 80".
    If fitted up nicely with U/J's they may save the spline for a bit longer in the driving flange.
    .
    I think you may have nailed it! Just took a few years to realise that it was not necessary (or to use up the stock of parts!).

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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