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Thread: fuel bleeding procedure

  1. #1
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    fuel bleeding procedure

    My service manual shows the fuel bleeding procedure as - firstly operate primer pump and loosen overflow valve on fuel filter adapter and then air bleed screw on injection pump- i thought you would loosen the fuel feed fitting on top of filter from fuel pump first and then air bleed screw on injection pump and then overflow valve as this seems how the fuel would flow from the pump ? The overflow valve is where the fuel return from injectors returns to filter - so why would that be bled first?

  2. #2
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    Perentie 4BD1 should be self bleeding. Mine is. So no need to loosen any bleed point. I'm not sure about other 110s.
    L322 tdv8 poverty pack - wow
    Perentie 110 wagon ARN 49-107 (probably selling) turbo, p/steer, RFSV front axle/trutrack, HF, gullwing windows, double jerrys etc.
    Perentie 110 wagon ARN 48-699 another project
    Track Trailer ARN 200-117
    REMLR # 137

  3. #3
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    self-bleeding-are you sure about that? if that's the case why would they give detailed bleeding instructions in the manual?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattmac View Post
    self-bleeding-are you sure about that? if that's the case why would they give detailed bleeding instructions in the manual?
    I previously would crack every injector till a mechanic told me don't bother. So haven't for a couple of years. I did a bleed on the weekend like this after running out of fuel. Just pump the hand primer till it goes firm and crank it over.
    L322 tdv8 poverty pack - wow
    Perentie 110 wagon ARN 49-107 (probably selling) turbo, p/steer, RFSV front axle/trutrack, HF, gullwing windows, double jerrys etc.
    Perentie 110 wagon ARN 48-699 another project
    Track Trailer ARN 200-117
    REMLR # 137

  5. #5
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    It seems to bleed easier with the fuel lever set to the "run" position.

  6. #6
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    they will self bleed..

    but the fastest way I have found for bleeding them (assuming the fuel system doesnt have a fault you are trying to find)

    crack open the small bleeder on the top of the fuel filter and pump the hand pump (turn it on the starter if you are lazy) till you have fuel coming out of there, close that pump another 10 or so strokes until the pump firms up and then crack one or 2 injector lines at the injector.

    crank it on the starter with the fuel cut out in the run position and the throttle in the max speed position until fuel comes out of the injector union. close the injector unions, keep the throttle at full fuel and start it, it will run rough but as soon as its started maintain about 1000-1500 RPM until the engine runs smoothly.

    the whole process can take less than a minute. and easily less than a minute if you have a helper in the drivers position.

    the main reason for opening the fuel bleeder is to make life easy on the hand pump and to let you know how much fuel its shifting.
    Dave

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  7. #7
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    thanks for replies and info.

  8. #8
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    I just let my left tank(perentie RFSV) run to empty to check fuel economy - after feeling it running dry i switched to the other tank (full) but wouldn't kick in- I've spent ages trying to pull fuel thru hand primer to bleed the system but not getting any fuel coming out of top of fuel filter bleed valve. How long should i need to pump hand primer to get fuel coming thru?

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattmac View Post
    I just let my left tank(perentie RFSV) run to empty to check fuel economy - after feeling it running dry i switched to the other tank (full) but wouldn't kick in- I've spent ages trying to pull fuel thru hand primer to bleed the system but not getting any fuel coming out of top of fuel filter bleed valve. How long should i need to pump hand primer to get fuel coming thru?
    my 110, i did the same, 22 pumps untill diesel filled the filter. 5 more pumps with the injectors cracked.

    10 seconds running untill all 4 and a nice idle.

    the reson i blead every thing is its easyer on the pump and starter motor.

    i think if you are not getting fule to the fulter i would check to see if there is a tank filter, and what ever plumbing valveing you have is clear

  10. #10
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    After repeated attempts to hand-prime i assumed there must be a blockage so removed inline filter at base of lift-pump(PITA to get at) which was clean- I didn't think it could be the primer pump as i had only recently replaced the leaky original zexel one- but decided to remove it and use the old one which i fortunately hadn't thrown away because even though it leaked badly whilst operating the plunger it bled the system in no time. Looks like a got faulty "new" primer pump-not impressed.

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