Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 22

Thread: RedDot into Disco 1

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Queensland
    Posts
    3,330
    Total Downloaded
    0

    RedDot into Disco 1

    I bought this R-6100 rooftop last summer but never got around to installing it. This summer looks to be a hot one and as the Disco aircon leaks, wont hold a vacuum and the compressor wont pump a good pressure I pulled the lot out. Removing the condensor from the front will give better airflow too and as well I found a weep in the radiator. I had been wondering where I was loosing coolant.
    The kit comes with a template so I found the centreline and marked it with a string. Then to find the fore and aft position the roof lining has to come out as there are a couple of beams there.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Queensland
    Posts
    3,330
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Marked it out to cut before removing the lining then had to move it forward to engage a beam with a bolt hole.
    Drilled some pilot holes and cut the hole with an air nibbler.
    Checked it for fit then glued it on with Sikaflex.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    karuah valley
    Posts
    823
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Is this going to be strong enough


    most of the roof top Ive fitted had a frame added. caravan and one box vans use a H frame often added on the outside. to stop cracking or water pooling..

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Kiwiland
    Posts
    7,246
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Following with interest. But won't you still need a front mount condensor or is that all handled in the roof top unit with only lines to the compressor up front?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Queensland
    Posts
    3,330
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Davehoos View Post
    Is this going to be strong enough


    most of the roof top Ive fitted had a frame added. caravan and one box vans use a H frame often added on the outside. to stop cracking or water pooling..
    Hope so. The 4 mounting bolts are close to the existing beams.
    Although the pressure from the closed cell foam surrounding the cutout has depressed the roof a little. Still its angled to each side so should run off.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Queensland
    Posts
    3,330
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Dougal View Post
    Following with interest. But won't you still need a front mount condensor or is that all handled in the roof top unit with only lines to the compressor up front?
    No , it gets rid of that front mount condenser.
    Its all self contained. Two hoses direct from compressor to unit.
    I will get a pic up later.
    Waiting for a new compressor and hoses.
    Bloody unit will be worth more than the Disco but I can always remove it and swap to something else if I have to.

    The old compressor is a Sanden SD709 with a Land Rover part number.
    Two horizontal ports the same size out the back with high and low pressure service valves on them. Seem to be hard to get so opting for a more common one but it means I lose the service valves but no one seems to use them these days. I liked them because I could use them to enable the compressor to pull a vac on the system while purging and charging, but I bought a vac pump so dont need them any more.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,073
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Great post and photos.
    Watching with interest.
    Thanks,
    Phil

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Queensland
    Posts
    3,330
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Where to route the hoses?

    Originally I got carried away and thought run them along the left chassis to the rear, up inside the tail light lining then back along inside the head lining, through a hole in the roof where the bump is then straight to the unit.
    Probably look tidy all hidden away but would need 8 mtres of hose with pressure drop considerations due to length etc.
    Another option was coming up inside the LH C pillar but would be too tight for hose. Copper tube might do it.
    Next option is exiting the engine bay through the LH mudguard running up the outside of the A pillar, back along the roof then a U turn into the unit.
    This is the easiest to remove if needed and has the shortest runs,
    .
    Might work better too.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    FNQ
    Posts
    1,723
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I built a roof top AC unit for my Defender used about 10 meters of hose and charged it with 300g of HyChil .works extremely well .As it is a 32000 btu unit I expect you would have no problems with long hoses on a smaller unit

    AM

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Queensland
    Posts
    3,330
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Yes, these are smaller at 16000 btu,s but I have decided to go with the short run up the A pillar. A mate suggested fit a snorkle to hide it but I am not too worried.
    Ran the wires across the roof and down behind the A pillar trim panel.
    Before I cut the hole in the roof I drilled a hole through the head lining and roof, this gave me a reference to cut the hole in the head lining.
    Cut it with a disc in the grinder as it was handy.
    Replaced the lining fixing with the hand grips. These have screw covers that hinge at the outer ends so put a blade in the inner gap and flick the cover open.
    Attached Images Attached Images

Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!