R380 cross drilled gear thingamybob

[4bee]

Yep a good article.

There was MONSTEROUS loctite on the six bolts,

I found that struggle was the worst part of the job.

[up2nogood]

Must be why thery didn't use Loctite on the TD5 oil pumps!


They ran out!!!!!!

[MacMan]

I think my stumbling block all this time has been that I was unable to remove the bearing housing due to not seeing the two screws. Next time I get the inclination I'll have another look but not too worried due to finding out I have the oil feed plate.

Utemad, I was a little surprised because the bearing housing plate was NOT fastened with said screws. But the gasket goo meant that it was a very firm coupling. I needed a few hig velocity blows with a light hammer and a long metal rod to act as a punch from below - and it needed to be about 40cm long to give me swinging room. Unless you dislodge the bearing housing you SHOULD (if it was shimmed right) have next to no play forwards or backward along the main shaft of the gearbox, so if you have some movement you know you're on the way to freeing it.

Mike

[Utemad]

Utemad, I was a little surprised because the bearing housing plate was NOT fastened with said screws. But the gasket goo meant that it was a very firm coupling. I needed a few hig velocity blows with a light hammer and a long metal rod to act as a punch from below - and it needed to be about 40cm long to give me swinging room. Unless you dislodge the bearing housing you SHOULD (if it was shimmed right) have next to no play forwards or backward along the main shaft of the gearbox, so if you have some movement you know you're on the way to freeing it.

Mike

Thanks for that. I don't know if mine has the screws or not but I know I couldn't dislodge it. However I didn't hit it as hard as you mentioned.
I had absolutely zero play as the gear would not budge 1mm in any direction. Probably a good thing.

I find it interesting that I never read about this bearing plate before. I researched this for days and days over time since I couldn't get the damn thing out and never once heard of the bearing plate needing to be removed.

[jimbo110]

i took my input gear out today for a check over. the main shaft has about 0.5mm of wear and the gear has 2 to 3 times as much so im going to replace the gear only and see how that goes. to remove the bearing plate there is a tab that sticks out above the main housing of the transfer case. the top of the transfer case is flat and right at the rear the tab sticks up about 5 to 6 mm. this is the top of the bearing plate and if you tap it rear wards the plate will come out quite easily, then pull the gear out with your fingers. having the transfer case in neutral also helps to let the gear turn as it comes out.

[MacMan]

I find it interesting that I never read about this bearing plate before. I researched this for days and days over time since I couldn't get the damn thing out and never once heard of the bearing plate needing to be removed.

I'd read nothing about it, but I think it's one of those "experts" things like opening your mouth before having a sip of beer, at least open your fly before wee wee's etc. that nobody in the know needs to mention to us ignoramusususus.

However I didn't hit it as hard as you mentioned.

For mine it wasn't about brute force. Small hammer fast is better than big hammer at any speed. Spent enough time working on bike engines to learn that one for good. The other variable seems to be gaskets - some seem to find gaskets, others none. Mine was none and all I was trying to do was to fracture the interface between the parts not damage the parts. I always get the willies hitting alloy parts when there are hardened steel parts around, especially when I am taking something apart for the first time without knowing how thick everything is. Overcautious I know...

i took my input gear out today for a check over. the main shaft has about 0.5mm of wear and the gear has 2 to 3 times as much

Seems to be the silly season for such things. I can understand Aussie Rover owners doing it this time of year because the TV is ***** and it's too hot to drive in an English car with English air conditioning. But Auckland should be nice this time of year!

Also, I think you should send the main shaft to me. I'd settle for 0.5mm of wear! (See pics again )

remove the bearing plate there is a tab that sticks out above the main housing of the transfer case.

There are actually two tabs sticking out. That was the give away that there was still a part to come when I got to that point, although access didn't really accommodate a backwards blow on the tabs. I just tapped away from three different directions at right angles to the main shaft.

I trawled back through Clarkie's posts and found he'd dealt with Karcraft for the parts. How have others found them to deal with?

[jimbo110]

Also, I think you should send the main shaft to me. I'd settle for 0.5mm of wear! (See pics again )

holy hell i see what you mean!!!!!! mine is nowhere near as bad as that. mine differs in a couple of ways though, the gear looks the same but the shaft is different, no thread on the end of mine and the spline on mine is much longer. thats how i could tell how worn it is becouse only the last 30 or so mm is worn, the rest is as new. im hoping like hell that the new drilled gear has the longer splines and i'll be happy as hell!!

[MacMan]

Update:

Just popped the gear out again having talked to Fred Smith.

1) He tells me that there shouldn't be screws holding the bearing housing on the later models. It's just sandwiched between the transfer case and the PTO cover.

2) No gaskets is normal.

3) I'll be going to see him tomorrow to get a replacement with the bearings pressed on and all measured up. Hopefully I can get away without having to replace the race outer that can't be removed from the transfer case without removing the WHOLE transfer case from the vehicle.

4) BTW, for anyone who can't get the bearing housing to budge (after checking for sure that there are no screws holding it fast, try the following:

- lift only one front wheel (safely of course!)
- with the transfer case in H (unlocked) and the gearbox in 1st, rotate the lifted front wheel back and forth from under the vehicle while trying to extract the plate. Because the input gear is bevel drive, it will try to slide backwards off the main shaft when turned the appropriate way. This will dislodge the bearing housing.

I had a bugger of a time getting it off the second time because of my beautiful RTV silicone gasket formed when I reassembled it.

I'll take some pics of the new gear, the old gear sans bearings, the bearing housing and everything else on reassembly. The replacement should go a very long way to reducing the clunking I've got now.

Going to ask about Maxi axles at the same time, but I don't think I'll be able to carry everything in a back pack on the murdercycle for 100km on the way home, but stranger things have happened!

[Utemad]

I just got three 4wd Monthly magazines (one of those 3 for 1 packs) and it has a great picture of the gear in question.
It is on page 12 of the 'Modified 4wheeler' magazine that came with the current 'New 4wd Ute Buyers Guide'. The other one was '4WDiscover New South Wales'.
The article is about the GKN intelligent overdrive kit for the Defender and the pic is a comparison pic of the GKN unit and the standard unit.

The mag actually has a decent amount of Land Rover stuff in it which I found strange since I was used to all the Toyota/Nissan articles from when I used to buy 4x4 mags.
As well as the overdrive article it has another one about changing springs/shocks in a County, a cooling system article with Rangie Classic pics and a gear ratio article with a Disco 1 diagram. Ok there is still more Toyota/Nissan stuff but it is more than I am used to

[Utemad]

Well this was a long time coming.

I removed and checked my input gear today. It's fine
Dad reckons the case hardening on the outer bearing is almost worn through. Also said if the outer one is worn then the inner one will be as bad or worse. However reckons it isn't going to fail anytime soon. Will just be noisy (already know that ).

As usual I took plenty of pics.

PTO cover


Oil feed plate


Bearing plate. No screws holding this one on just needed a good bashing.


Input gear. Has a small mark around the centre of the drive gear.


Inner splines of the input gear. They're all there.


Mainshaft in the gearbox. You can see the rear bearing as well.


I've just put it all back together for now happy in the knowledge that any drive train slop isn't coming from there. I'll order some bearings sometime so if the transfer has to come out for any reason I'll have them on hand.