Try chamfering the leading edge of the pad. P38A pads are heavily chamfered. See pic at http://www.cunningham.me.uk/rangiewi...action_Control
Another trick is to cut a couple of shallow slots across the pad with hacksaw.
Ron
My father just had the rear brake pads replaced in his 88 4dr rangie, when the shop road tested the car post service it was fine, but after about half an hour of driving the brakes started to squeal when applied. He has been told that this is a common problem due to the absence of asbestos in the current brake pads.
The shop told him that the rotors get a film on them and would need to be machined. (It wasn't doing it with the old pads.) This was done on car yesterday. I picked up the car this morning, was fine when I left the shop..but...within about half an hour they've started to squeal again.
Is this a common problem? What is the solution?
Cheers Guy
Try chamfering the leading edge of the pad. P38A pads are heavily chamfered. See pic at http://www.cunningham.me.uk/rangiewi...action_Control
Another trick is to cut a couple of shallow slots across the pad with hacksaw.
Ron
Ron B.
VK2OTC
2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA
RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever
Place some gasket paper between rear of pad and holder at the back of the caliper. This slightly changes the angle of the pad on the rotor. Worked a treat on my old 89RR, after many failed attempts with other methods
Deglazing the rotor isnt a machining job its a job for a small wire wheel in a drill. when you do the rotor be sure to deglaze the pads as well, thats even easier by giving them a scuff on some flat wet concrete, A paving slab is perfect.
Id do it like this
1. get all 4 corners up and rubber off (I have acess to a hoist but at min get one axle up at a time)
2. remove the pads from both sides
3. give the rotors a light going over with the wire wheel in a radial fashion (from center to edge) do inside and out then the other side.
4. wet a paving stone, place the pads face down and move in a circular motion for about a minute with 3 fingers pressing down just hard enough to make the tips of your nails go white.
5. stand the pad up at 45 degrees on the leading edge and scuff a chamfer on the front
6. (optional depending on if this is the first time youve done it or not with this set of pads) with a very very fine dremal wheel or hacksaw blade cut a groove running about 30degrees leaning towards the rear of the vehicle about 1/4 of the way through the pad meat.
7. put it back together
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
thats some good advise my daily driver ( non-landy) had a service the service bloke said that the rotors needed machining because they were glazed also it would cost a bit more because they are slotted.
So I just need a wire brush !
Do you think an angle gringer and wire brush wheel would be to harsh?
depends.... And as for charging more for doing a slotted disk tell him to go insert his head into a blender and turn it on high....
A slotted disc as far as machining goes (depending on how its slotted) is no harder to machine than a normal disc... same goes for cross drilled. Ive had no hassles doing either on the machine at work. The floating disks however tend to be a PITA to set up and any hassles during machining generally resorts in a disc running out of true.
What happens when you get glazing is this... The pads have gotten hot and gone "glassy" which is the glue that holds the compound together melting and filling in the little pits that make the pads high friction.
when this happens instead of the pads rubbing the rotors and gripping on them your polishing them....
as a rough equivelent its like polishing a piece of brass, hit it with wet and dry and you leave scratches, as the paper wears down your no longer "cutting" with the paper but polishing the surface.
A wire wheel on a grinder probabley wont be excessive but I like the wire wheel on a drill as the speed is more controlable and as its a small fine wire cone shape I push the drill on lightly untill it leaves swirl marks and then move over 1/2 the wheel width and go again. It takes about a second a patch to work.
If your still not having any luck you need the 100mph tune. With deglazed pads take her out to a nice long stretch of copless highway.. Crank er up to warp factor "gunna get speeding tickets" and get on the pics. DONT lock the wheels, if you can hold em chirping great. give that 4-5 goes and then redo the pads and give the rotors a touch again.
your brake dust production is the first indication of glazing, wash your rims weekly if your brake dust production deminishes your getting glazing...
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
I remember when the 84 phase II rangies came out and they all hadsqealing brakes, my dad bought one and no matter what he did he couldnt get rid of the sqeal even the landy guys couldnt stop it.
MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
1998 Triumph Daytona T595
1974 VW Kombi bus
1958 Holden FC special sedan
squeal doesnt concern me much at all really.
It's stopping ability I think about
| Search AULRO.com ONLY! |
Search All the Web! |
|---|
|
|
|
Bookmarks