Rear hub swap rover to salisbury

[snafubar]

Help please guys..... I have oil throwing over left rear wheel/tyre. Spiderman style. I suspect hub seal. I have a wreck with a rover diff that I want to swap hub to my sals diff. Anyone aware of any issues with this, or is it straight forward swap keeping drive flange? Like most, I'm on a budget. I should mention I need the hub swap due to 1 snapped axle bolt and 1 threaded axle bolt next to one another so no matter how many drive flange gaskets I throw at it it'll keep weeping.
If they are compatible hubs, is there a joint gasket between hub and axle housing? Can't see one in pats manual.....
Thanks in advance.
Matt

[Seriestwo]

if its a 109 it is a pretty easy swap over, however it its into a 88 then you will need to do a little bit of work.

[JDNSW]

Hubs themselves are the same for Salisbury and Rover diffs - but!

Late Series 2a changed from 9/16" to 16mm studs, and while this won't affect the swap, you probably want to keep the same wheel nut size on all wheels.

Late Series 3 changed the bearings, and hubs are not interchangeable.

Swapping the whole axle assembly, 109 to 109 is easy, just need to swap tailshaft as well. 88 to 109 or vice versa, not so easy.

The hub itself is not attached to the axle housing, the stub axle is, and I think it has a paper gasket - not sure though.

The oil on your wheel, if it is on the inside, is from the hub seal. If on the outside, it will be coming either from the hub cap (use a sealant) or the drive flange (paper gasket). If the latter, suspect loose wheel bearings.

Drive flanges changed to 24 spline for the Salisbury (fronts match) and for all models in late S3, but you can retain your old flanges with any hub - except for the splines, they are the same (or interchangeable) all the way from Series 1.

Hope this helps.

John

[snafubar]

Thanks for the info guys. I should have mentioned this is an un-named 1967 109 that, according to CalVIN, is a CKD 2.6, but currently has a 186 for motivation. I was fortunate enough to meet the three times removed PO who did most of the refurb work, including the engine and diff change. He was pretty handy, as he homebuilt a bracket to install an AC compressor, plumbed using the receiver/drier as a lube system(?not entirely sure how that works, will post pics) to pull air from a hose barb tapped into the aircleaner and pump it to a quick connect fitting under the LF wheelarch. Came with a decent length of super flexible high pressure rubber hose with a trigger and gauge about 4 foot form the tyre valve connector. You don't even need to bend down once the hose is connected to the tyre. Anyhow........
The PO also mentioned he put the diff in, but he didn't know what it came out of. Is there anyway to tell if its an early or late sals without pulling it apart?
My other train of thought regards whether the bearings are grease only or oil wetted. From the green bible exploded diagram, it appears the hub seal (RTC?3510 trying to remember.....) Prevents diff case oil from moving up the axle. But I have also heard there is a hole or gallery for oil to move between the diff and hub. Then the only seal I can see to prevent oil loss is the drive flange gasket and dust cover. I've taken the day off work tomorrow and am going to be giving the hub swap a crack. Any last minute advise? I'll be picking up new bearing lock washers first thing, I got grease, oil and drive flange gaskets. Can anyone think of anything else? Cheers, matt

[snafubar]

Well, jobs done. All went smooth. Best thing was I learnt a bit. My 109 wreck has oil fill holes in the drive flange. Large phillips head grub screw in each rear drive flange countersunk drilled and tapped at 45 into the flange housing with the bearings and lock nuts etc. Looks cool will attach pics when on pc. Now one is thinking - how much lube? I. E. How deep should the rear wheel bearings sit in oil? I reckon the bottom of the ID of the axle spindle would dictate max level. I'm gonna get the level out and start measuring distance from ground to diff fill plug (sals), and next time the bearing hub comes off, to the bottom of the spindle.

Any thoughts anyone?

[JDNSW]

Well, jobs done. All went smooth. Best thing was I learnt a bit. My 109 wreck has oil fill holes in the drive flange. Large phillips head grub screw in each rear drive flange countersunk drilled and tapped at 45 into the flange housing with the bearings and lock nuts etc. Looks cool will attach pics when on pc. Now one is thinking - how much lube? I. E. How deep should the rear wheel bearings sit in oil? I reckon the bottom of the ID of the axle spindle would dictate max level. I'm gonna get the level out and start measuring distance from ground to diff fill plug (sals), and next time the bearing hub comes off, to the bottom of the spindle.

Any thoughts anyone?

0.19l according to my book - however, later instructions specify packing the bearings with grease for initial lubrication, with oil migrating from the diff later.

The filler plugs were discontinued at this time but the parts book gives no date or chassis numbers. Just refer to "early" or "late".

John

[snafubar]

Thanks John. 190ml would seem about right. When the unit was in my hands this morn I thought "bit less that a cup would do....."
I'm keen to get the measurements mentioned earlier to see what happens with good fill levels for diff. Is that enough to 'spill' a cup of lube into the hubs? I would like to work out the optimum rotational angle to have the wheel/drive flange at to read the hub oil level from the fill plug. I guess about 90degrees? That would make the bottom of this drive flange grub screw about the same height as the bottom ID of the spindle. PITA working in the gutter. Can't rely on road surface being level enough for measuring.