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Thread: Gling Shower in D3?

  1. #1
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    Gling Shower in D3?

    Hi
    I have just picked up a Glind shower and am working out where to fit it under the bonnet as well as the best point to connect to the car heater line in my D3. If anyone can give me some pointers on this or similar units or even better some photos on how to fit to a D3 it would be great...
    Cheers
    Ben

  2. #2
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    My experience with this type of shower unit is that they do not work very well in modern diesels, I plumbed one (Helton and Twine) into my D2 and because of the way the cooling system works, it doesn't supply a constant amount of hot water to be able to have a shower.

    The reason for 2 types, was that I thought it might have been the unit, but it wasn't, I tried a mate Twine and tried every way that you can plumb it in, but no joy.

    I had a Ford Explorer before the D2 and the Helton shower exchanger was brilliant in it, I was the first person to put a heat exchanger type shower unit in an Explorer and the photos of my install were on the website.

    The problem is not only LandRover but all of the new common rail type diesels have this problem.

    Just my experience, hopefuly the D3 might be different.

    Baz.
    Cheers Baz.

    2011 Discovery 4 SE 2.7L
    1990 Perentie FFR EX Aust Army
    1967 Series IIa 109 (Farm Truck)
    2007 BMW R1200GS
    1979 BMW R80/7
    1983 BMW R100TIC Ex ACT Police
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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Redback View Post
    My experience with this type of shower unit is that they do not work very well in modern diesels, I plumbed one (Helton and Twine) into my D2 and because of the way the cooling system works, it doesn't supply a constant amount of hot water to be able to have a shower.

    The reason for 2 types, was that I thought it might have been the unit, but it wasn't, I tried a mate Twine and tried every way that you can plumb it in, but no joy.

    I had a Ford Explorer before the D2 and the Helton shower exchanger was brilliant in it, I was the first person to put a heat exchanger type shower unit in an Explorer and the photos of my install were on the website.

    The problem is not only LandRover but all of the new common rail type diesels have this problem.

    Just my experience, hopefuly the D3 might be different.

    Baz.
    I can't talk from experience here with later vehicles but with this logic the heater in the vehicle should not work properly.

    I have a Helton in my TDI D1 and it works brilliantly. I have connected it in series with the heater core with the heater water going through the Helton before the heater core which ensures the hottest water.

    Dave.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Whippy View Post
    I can't talk from experience here with later vehicles but with this logic the heater in the vehicle should not work properly.

    I have a Helton in my TDI D1 and it works brilliantly. I have connected it in series with the heater core with the heater water going through the Helton before the heater core which ensures the hottest water.

    Dave.
    The heater in the D2 is a bit different, water only flows through the core at 1500rpm and over, this is where the problem lies, the flow in the TD5 with climate control isn't constant enough.

    Baz.
    Cheers Baz.

    2011 Discovery 4 SE 2.7L
    1990 Perentie FFR EX Aust Army
    1967 Series IIa 109 (Farm Truck)
    2007 BMW R1200GS
    1979 BMW R80/7
    1983 BMW R100TIC Ex ACT Police
    1994 Yamaha XT225 Serow

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Redback View Post
    The heater in the D2 is a bit different, water only flows through the core at 1500rpm and over, this is where the problem lies, the flow in the TD5 with climate control isn't constant enough.

    Baz.
    That's not correct. It always flows through the heater core and up to 1500rpm it doesn't flow through the radiator at all. However flow through the heater core is limited to that achievable by 1500 rpm so any water heater must be installed in series with the heater core.
    MY12 RRV 4.4 TDV8 AB, +LLAMS, +e-diff, +ACC stop/go. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Graeme View Post
    That's not correct. It always flows through the heater core and up to 1500rpm it doesn't flow through the radiator at all. However flow through the heater core is limited to that achievable by 1500 rpm so any water heater must be installed in series with the heater core.
    Tried it, doesn't work!!
    Cheers Baz.

    2011 Discovery 4 SE 2.7L
    1990 Perentie FFR EX Aust Army
    1967 Series IIa 109 (Farm Truck)
    2007 BMW R1200GS
    1979 BMW R80/7
    1983 BMW R100TIC Ex ACT Police
    1994 Yamaha XT225 Serow

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Redback View Post
    Tried it, doesn't work!!
    Have you plumbed it so that the heat exchanger gets the hot water before the heater core.

    If the heater gets hot it has to work. Do d2s have a heater tap and if so is it fully open. Is the engine thermostat working.

    On my D1 to get the water really hot I take my RPM to about 1500 just to get the water to circulate faster.

    When I first installed it the water was not quite hot enough so I took the fan off. After about two minuets I could not hold my hand under the water.

    I have found that after a good drive it does get hot enough.

    Dave.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Redback View Post
    Tried it, doesn't work!!
    I don't know if its hot enough for a heat exchanger, but my info re the flow is from the WSM.

    Did you have the heat exchanger outlet continuing to the heater core, with all the heater fluid going through the heat exchanger? IIRC someone had installed a T which divided the flow between the heat exchanger and the heater core. Also, was the heat exchanger's flow more restrictive that of the heater core, ie was too much pressure required which caused the thermostat relief valve to open?
    MY12 RRV 4.4 TDV8 AB, +LLAMS, +e-diff, +ACC stop/go. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Whippy View Post
    Have you plumbed it so that the heat exchanger gets the hot water before the heater core.

    If the heater gets hot it has to work. Do d2s have a heater tap and if so is it fully open. Is the engine thermostat working.

    On my D1 to get the water really hot I take my RPM to about 1500 just to get the water to circulate faster.

    When I first installed it the water was not quite hot enough so I took the fan off. After about two minuets I could not hold my hand under the water.

    I have found that after a good drive it does get hot enough.

    Dave.
    I've tried it every way you can plumb it in, that's before AND after the heater, before and after the radiator, the first install was exactly the same as I had it in the Explorer, didn't work, then tried the way a mate had it in his 100series Cruiser, that didn't work either, so I tried it the opposite way, still no go, in the end I gave up, the most annoying part of the whole experience was, I had a join in every coolant hose in the car

    Graeme I don't dispute what you say, and yes I've tried every way, trust me I still have joins in the hoses to and from the heater.

    Baz.
    Cheers Baz.

    2011 Discovery 4 SE 2.7L
    1990 Perentie FFR EX Aust Army
    1967 Series IIa 109 (Farm Truck)
    2007 BMW R1200GS
    1979 BMW R80/7
    1983 BMW R100TIC Ex ACT Police
    1994 Yamaha XT225 Serow

  10. #10
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    G'day Baz,
    Unless someone has shown otherwise, it sounds as though the one you have tried must be too restrictive in its flow. In the TD5 D2, the heater circuit is the only reliable circuit in which to fit such a unit so all I can think is that your unit is unsuitable for such use. Maybe a different brand with larger diameter pipework might work better.
    MY12 RRV 4.4 TDV8 AB, +LLAMS, +e-diff, +ACC stop/go. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi

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