Reasonably common. I think Long Stroke had some pics up.
 Wizard
					
					
						Wizard
					
					
                                        
					
					
						I've been toying with the idea of stitch welding a length of angle, say 25 x 25 x5 accross my 110 tie rod over about the center half of its length to reinforce it and hopefully stop it bending again. I know you can buy heavy duty versions from somewhere but this method will only cost a few $$ as opposed to a few hundred which I dont have at the moment. I've reinforced my rear trailing arms on the cheap, using flat bar welded along the top and that definiitly paid off on the weekend after an argument with a big rock.....
The other option is to slip a length of pipe over the center section of the tie rod and plug weld it in a few places IF I can find something with a suitable ID.
Has anybody done something similar to their tie rod or got any thoughts on the idea?
Reasonably common. I think Long Stroke had some pics up.
When you say tie rod, you are talking about the track rod? across the rear of the diff? i had trouble bending my stock one, for a temp fix we got a peice of square tube(dont remember the size but messure the rod and go to your local metal supplier and messure the ID of the tube) and cut to length, then slipped it over the rod it was a tight fit and had to be tapped over with a hammer, this worked for me for quite some time before i upgraded to a proper heavy duty one we made.
You probobly cant do this with vehicles that run the steering damper on the track rod but you could always move this to the defender type position.
I often worry about strengthening some components.
The thought occurs to me that LR could easily and cheaply make them stronger. However, if they were made too strong, then some other associated, possible more expensive or more inaccessible component would become the weakest link.
Maybe that isn't a problem in this situation, but there must be some reason why LR makes then the way they are.
1973 Series III LWB 1983 - 2006
1998 300 Tdi Defender Trayback 2006 - often fitted with a Trayon slide-on camper.
That may be the case in some instances, but i think you will find almost everyone on here who actually drives the harder stuff will have upgraded this already. And looking at the next weak link is the rod end, these are way stronger then the stock track rod. Vehicle makers will cut corners when ever they can(safely of course) to bring there final costs down and with the stock item which is garbage in my opinion but it is up to the task for most land rover owners.
I have had this fail in the bush, its certainly not much fun - i see no possible downside to upgrading this.
 Wizard
					
					
						Wizard
					
					
                                        
					
					
						No reason why you cant re-inforce a trackrod with damper at the rear, just need to remove the bracket and then weld back on to the new improved section.
MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
1998 Triumph Daytona T595
1974 VW Kombi bus
1958 Holden FC special sedan
Buy a heavy duty replacement as Harry suggests (humbly but wisely). I did so after bending two stockers on the Disco. I also moved the steering damper to the Defender location because it was rendered cactus as well.
Graeme Cooper (Sydney) and (LRA Melbourne) sell them.
At least in NSW the welding of steering components is forbidden by law.
Mahn England
DEFENDER 110 D300 SE '23 (the S M E G)
Ex DEFENDER 110 wagon '08 (the Kelvinator)
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members-rides/105691-one_iotas-110-inch-kelvinator.html
Ex 300Tdi Disco:
Agree, I used to weld angle to all drag links and tie rods, and would still bend them occasionally, although FAR less often, I eventually put larger arms on and wouldn't have it any other way, when you bend a stocker, you can literally straighten it by hand in the bush, far to weak
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