Thread: LT95 input bearing problems

Had a similar problem on a B-W 4 speed box years ago: check the clearance without the gasket. If it's OK just use a good sealant.

Just checked the thickness of the bearing, and as far as I can measure it (crappy digital calipers) its the same thickness as the plate that it sits in.
Any gasket thickness would create a gap.
Seems a bit strange as I would have thought there would have been either no clearance, or a slight negative clearance to clamp the bearing positively in place.

The wear in the front cover isn't quite as deep as I thought - only about 0.6mm, but that means even if I left out the gasket and just used some good sealant that there would still be 0.6mm of play for the isuzu to smash the bearing back and forth. I don't think that's going to work out well.

Steve

From your photos , there are many faults other than just the standard wear that a 1 litre per cylider 4 pot will induce .Got to Love that Isuzu idle death rattle !!!
Seen this from people who like to rest there foot on the clutch pedal !!

The oil return Fibre has spun ?and is in the incorrect position
The return holes are in the wrong position
There are inadequate return Holes
The Pump pressure setting is wrong
The pump pressure setting is not staked
The input seal is the wrong type
The input seal is in the wrong position
Excessive use of gaskets and what looks like extra gasket making compound .
Apart from that , thats the way most left the factory ,
Many good mods have become available for this area since , like the new sealing arrangement , the mods to the oil return , the pump pressure settings , the new metal type moon and sixpence(oil pump gears) , end float adjustments and the list goes on to make the old LT95 more reliable. Pity most problems stem simply from using the wrong oil at the wrong time .

Originally Posted by 400HPONGAS

From your photos , there are many faults other than just the standard wear that a 1 litre per cylider 4 pot will induce .Got to Love that Isuzu idle death rattle !!!
Seen this from people who like to rest there foot on the clutch pedal !!

The oil return Fibre has spun ?and is in the incorrect position
The return holes are in the wrong position
There are inadequate return Holes
The Pump pressure setting is wrong
The pump pressure setting is not staked
The input seal is the wrong type
The input seal is in the wrong position
Excessive use of gaskets and what looks like extra gasket making compound .
Apart from that , thats the way most left the factory ,
Many good mods have become available for this area since , like the new sealing arrangement , the mods to the oil return , the pump pressure settings , the new metal type moon and sixpence(oil pump gears) , end float adjustments and the list goes on to make the old LT95 more reliable. Pity most problems stem simply from using the wrong oil at the wrong time .

Thanks 400HP - all good info for a LT95 newbie.
The oil return fibre is quite loose - I'd previously pulled it out with my finger, and just pushed it back in so I had one less loose part floating around on the bench. Guess I'll need to replace it....

I've got a complete seal kit so have the new input seal to fit. Haven't compared the installed one with the new one, but would be interested in what you can actually see in the photo that looks wrong regarding the type/position.

I'll have a good read of the manual regarding the pump pressure setting. From your comment I'm guessing that the screw shouldnt be that deep.

Its the first LT95 I've had apart, so any guidance is appreciated - expecially if there are things that have been done "wrong" previously.

Will be getting a metal gear oil pump kit as this one still had the original fibre ones.

Any suggestions on a repair for the front plate, or should I just be getting one thats not damaged?

Steve

I've been told that you should only use the original RHP brand bearing for the input shaft if its behind an isuzu, as the isuzu eats other brands of bearings in short(er) order.

Can anyone confirm whether that's correct, or will any decent brand of bearing be OK?


Steve

Originally Posted by steveG

I've been told that you should only use the original RHP brand bearing for the input shaft if its behind an isuzu, as the isuzu eats other brands of bearings in short(er) order.

Can anyone confirm whether that's correct, or will any decent brand of bearing be OK?


Steve

They are definitely the best quality. RHP MJ 1 1/2 - also on the rear of the mainshaft. Also make sure you use new bearing retaining clamps R571139 and use a bit of loctite on the bearing outer race if it is loose in the sandwich plate.

Thanks Brian. I've got a feeling the price of the bearing is going to hurt a bit. I've seen online pricing of about GBP70 each, so hate to think what they are here, but if a lesser bearing isn't going to hack it I'll just have to fork out the $$.

Interesting thing is that the bearing was still pretty tight in the sandwich plate, but still managed to eat away the cover plate. Cant get my head around that one very well.

I think I've managed to get hold of a good used cover plate, so will install the bearing into the housing with loctite making sure its hard up against the cover plate before the loctite goes off. Hopefully if I can remove any gap there it wont get a chance to rattle around and wear the cover again.
The retaining plates are quite straight, so I think I'll just reverse them to use the unworn side against the bearing. The wear isn't enough to affect the strength, but I want to reduce any play as much as possible, without turning into a full strip and rebuild !!

Could really do with a better set of transfer gears while I've got it apart. The 1.3 ratio from the Stage1 box isn't going to be so great :-(

Steve.

In fact RHP arent really a manufacturer anymore , if they ever were ! Owned by NSK now, RHP = ransom,Hoffman and Pollard)
those bearings can be sourced from nearly all the Major Manufacturers or their halfwit Distributors !!!
FAG,INA,KOYO,NACHI,NSK,NTN,SKF,TIMKEN etc etc
Problem is will they fit ? That particular bearing may have particular attributes that are required such as size and placement of the Radius;sssssiii (whatever) the sealing arrangement,the Number of Rolling elements,Circlip grooves internal or external,tolerance and fit etc
You can order them from Blackwoods , they are that common , and if you get a FAG bearing your lucky as they are by far the best .(Not saying it will be the right spec ). a case of Caveat Emptor !!!!In this situation the more balls the better !!!!
Yeah use the .996's out of 82-84 RRC and the short throw selectors/shaft as well .