Lucas V8 dissy nylon clip repair method.

**bee utey** · 29th October 2010, 12:57 PM

OK!
I decided today to document a simple procedure to permanently fix the problem nylon clip in the Lucas V8 electronic dissy. That's the one that stops you pulling off the advance springs when you remove the rotor button.

You will need:
Vice with soft jaws
Very fine circlip pliers/fine long nose pliers
Fine file
Hacksaw
M4 or M5 screw, washer, matching thread taps and tapping drill, tap wrench.
Patience.

First mark the dissy rotor position at no.1 TDC. Remove the dissy, mount in vice and remove the clear plastic cover. See pic 1

Using fine circlip pliers and a fine flat blade screwdriver lift off the circlip, washer and 'o' ring. Mark the star rotor with respect to the shaft notch and lift the star off by gently rocking two flat screwdrivers. Next to the dissy are the circlip, washer and "o" ring. See pic 2.

You now undo the 3 post screws holding the pick up plate on. Remove the advance springs if they haven't already fallen off. Lift off the advance shaft assembly. All the bits spread on my bonnet. See pic 3.

With the pick-up assembly swung aside, cut the "pimple" off that retains the advance shaft and file the end flat with a fine file. Make sure the pick-up is right away from the drill shavings splatter so you don't have to spend the next 1/2 hour removing shavings from the magnet. Drill a tapping hole in the end of the shaft, about 10mm deep. Cut the thread deep enough for your chosen screw. Use a plug tap if you can get one. Here I have a M5 x 8 allen head screw. The tap drill is 4.2mm. The head must be slightly bigger than the inner shaft. If the tapped hole is slightly off centre it's no matter, the shoulder of the screw will hold the top assembly. There's no load ever on this screw until you yank the rotor button. See pic 4.

After cleaning all the shavings/ other grot out, look down the shaft and get out the nylon spacer from near the advance.This is shown on the left of pic 5. Oil everything, fit the nylon spacer carefully to the advance shaft so it aligns properly. The cause of all this work (nylon clip

) is seen on the right of pic 5.

See next post for the rest.

**bee utey** · 29th October 2010, 01:06 PM

Part two.

Once you have the advance shaft back on, the grub screw installed, the pickup plate on and the star rotor on, don't turn it until you have checked for free rotation. The whole pick-up plate is sloppy on its screws, so slightly loosening them allows you to set the gap at the star points. I have a 0.005" feeler gauge in there. Also fit a new "o" ring if you can get one as the old one usually shatters. This one is out of an airconditioning service kit. See pic 1.

Once you have it spinning freely replace the thin washer and the circlip. Press down on the washer and make sure the circlip is fully seated. See pic 2.

Reinstall the plastic cover and the rotor button. Reinstall the dissy making sure the rotor returns to its marked location before tightening the clamp. Start the engine and check the timing.

PS The weeny long nose pliers are from an electronics shop. Very handy.

Cheers!

**muddy** · 29th October 2010, 02:11 PM

Hi Bee utey

Correct me but I seem to recall that not to use metal feeler gauges when gapping as it may have something to do with the residual magisitism of the sender unit.

maurice

**bee utey** · 29th October 2010, 02:15 PM

Originally Posted by muddy

Hi Bee utey

Correct me but I seem to recall that not to use metal feeler gauges when gapping as it may have something to do with the residual magisitism of the sender unit.

maurice

Dunno about that, there is a permanent magnet in the pick-up anyway so I can't see a problem. Not to say I shouldn't use a brass feeler but thanks for the thought.

**muddy** · 29th October 2010, 02:37 PM

Hi bee utey

I am pretty sure this was in the lr manual (early defender) and said to use non magnetic so i used some shimming (non magnetic material) to do what you have done

I am not at home at present to do a xref may be some one else could check

thanks for your info on various mods--I am learning!

Maurice

**flyinglandrover** · 29th October 2010, 07:34 PM

Bee Utey

Many Thanks! I owe you a big drink!

This post came through today just as I was about to begin exactly this job! With the pic's and detailed instructions I was able to sort things with relative ease! The old girl is up and running again!
Once again Thanks

Gary

**cucinadio** · 29th October 2010, 07:52 PM

was one of the first jobs needed to be done on my D1....bloody thing drove me crazy...thanks for putting it up mate will become invaluable to D1 owners!!!!

cheers

**LOVEMYRANGIE** · 29th October 2010, 10:00 PM

This an issue in the 3.9 as well ???

Never heard of this so may be something to look at in the Rangie.

Cheers

Andrew

**bee utey** · 30th October 2010, 09:04 AM

Originally Posted by LOVEMYRANGIE

This an issue in the 3.9 as well ???

Never heard of this so may be something to look at in the Rangie.

Cheers

Andrew

Lucas V8 dissy's have been doing this ever since they were invented. I was told of this trick about 28 years ago by a traditional auto sparkie. Been doing the repair ever since. Generally the problem occurs through lack of servicing. After a few years of neglect the rotor button sticks something shocking to the shaft. If everyone followed THE PROPER SERVICING PROCEDURE there wouldn't be a problem! A drop of oil down the hole every 10 000km and check the advance with a timing light while you are doing the service. Easy really. That's probably why your Rangie is OK.

**mark2** · 31st October 2010, 10:30 PM

My rotor is stuck fast to the shaft. I think I'd break something if I tried to remove it......

What are the symptoms of the broken nylon clip?

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Lucas V8 dissy nylon clip repair method.

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