Reply With QuoteEr , I think that is why they crimp battery connections.
Regards Philip A
TopicToaster
I thought I'd seen it all.
My project Isuzu started to need a fully charged battery to start up, then it started to die when the ignition was turned to start. Then it went dead, usually for a few hours or maybe a day, but would not kick over, just click & go dead whenever it chose to light up the ignition panel & I tried to start it.
The multimeter showed 12.3 volts at the terminals, leads & to anywhere on the body ( within reach around the battery with the red probe on the positive cable)
I finally traced it to a faulty battery lead at the terminal !!
It was just a fluke as I had the ignition turned on & happened to apply some leverage to the earth lead at the battery & the panel lit up.
I had previously cleaned the terminals, tested the battery in my other Landie & cleaned the earth lead terminal on the chassis.
I removed the offending lead, put it in a vice & could not budge the lead out of the terminal with all my ( considerable) body weight
This is what it looked like.
I couldn't work out why it was such a crap connection, so I cut it open with the angle grinder & found a yellowish skin had developed all around the solder joint.
I have never known this to happen, it would be the same type of connection with most vehicles I guess.
One for the books, lucky I found it before I had it registered, it would have been an interesting one to happen in the bush because it really developed over a half dozen starts..
Anybody have any idea what it is ?? - too much flux??
Swaggie
SubscriberEr , I think that is why they crimp battery connections.
Regards Philip A
YarnMaster
Either that or use hard copper terminals lugs and have them spotwelded to the leads then use a suitable solid brass marine type terminal.Originally Posted by PhilipA
It's the flux from a slightly too cold solder and probably the wrong flux or just far too much.
ChatterBox
It's the flux from a slightly too cold solder and probably the wrong flux or just far too much.[/QUOTE]
From what I can see in the photos that would be my answer as well, too much flux can make a high resistance joint, but on the outside look fine.
TopicToaster
So to make sure this hasn't happened and won't happen later, would simply heating it with a torch till the solder goes shiny (ie melts)be enough? And then heatshrink the hell out of the now melty insulation
I much prefer liquid to paste fluxes because liquid fluxes are so much easier to clean up afterwards. Some phosphoric acid based fluxes neutralise once they 'cook' as well.
ForumSage
I soldered the terminals on for a second battery. Insides were filed back to shiny brass, cable flooded with solder, inserted cable into terminal and used a pin torch to completely fill the join.
There is a bit of flux residue on the cable. All good so far after 4 years.
DL
YarnMaster
Nope. Problem is the dead flux won't re dissolve and will just burn resulting in more insulation. As the surface is also corroded, the solder will skin from the residue and you end up with a dry joint.So to make sure this hasn't happened and won't happen later, would simply heating it with a torch till the solder goes shiny (ie melts)be enough? And then heatshrink the hell out of the now melty insulation
I much prefer liquid to paste fluxes because liquid fluxes are so much easier to clean up afterwards. Some phosphoric acid based fluxes neutralise once they 'cook' as well.
Only real way to re use the same terminal is to trim the end of the lead, dress the terminal with a file removin all the corrosion and exposing fresh metal, crimp it and then solder with a proper open flame type flux, solid bar solder and a propane or MAP gas torch then heatshrink the joint.
Cheers
Andrew
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