So how do you get it and how do you prevent it?
these are the pics from the Fuel water seperator on the wifes car.
This is after I have already cleaned it out once and drained the tank to dry through the supply to the lift pump then refilled it with fresh diesel
2012-01-09_18-45-20_367.jpg
looks like something out of the Californian kelp farms
2012-01-09_18-46-22_554.jpg
One tankfull of fuels worth.
After this The tank was dropped, shoveled out washed with detergent, wiped out with disinfectant air dried and then refilled with snot killing antifungal agent the lines all removed and washed then blown out, the filter changed and the system reprimed.
The gooey snot looking stuff has a texture of Snot, the black stuff feels like the stuff that comes off of emery paper Imagine that getting past the fuel filters on your td5/pumu/tdv6/8.
up untill it cloged the outlet of the FWS the first time there was no loss of power from the vehicle.
Heres an easy check to see if youve got problems with it.
remove a fuel line the filter (you can do it to the filter as well but its designed to catch stuff so you'll get a false reading) drain it and then fill it out with white spirits, ULP or metho. let it sit for a minute then shake and drain into a glass. If you have small black particles come out with it and a jelly sitting on the bottom after the fuel evaporates your system is compromised.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
So how do you get it and how do you prevent it?
2024 RRS on the road
2011 D4 3.0 in the drive way
1999 D2 V8, in heaven
1984 RRC, in hell
letting water sit in your fuel, leaving your fuel to sit for prolonged periods and getting contaminated fuel.
only treatment is good filtration and the use of the anti fungal treatment as required
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Is it more likely in tropical climates or happen anywhere?
Cheers, Mick.
1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
1971 S2A 88
1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
1972 S3 88 x 2
1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
REMLR 88
1969 BSA Bantam B175
Hi All
Between algae, fungus and paraffin wax build up, it's a wonder that our poor buses run at all.
.
I've heard of it, but not up here at all. Maybe it's like cane toads - it's on the way.
But I run a petrol V8, because I can't afford a diesel!
At any given point in time, somewhere in the world someone is working on a Land-Rover.
It may or may not be related to water and condensation. It is a common problem, particularly in marine environments. Often seems to arise from buying fuel from contaminated sources. The only sure way to combat it long term is to dose your fuel tank with each fill. About a capful is all it takes.
Here is some info about it:
Diesel Bug Explained - Bacteria Contamination of Diesel - Freephone 0800 933 939 for more info
and some more:
Advanced Diesel Solutions New Zealand
The magnetic solution in the second link seems to work well on boats. The bug gets zapped before it can reproduce. The fuel is cycled through the system.
Alan
Alan
2005 Disco 2 HSE
1983 Series III Stage 1 V8
its more common in the tropics. Roughly speaking the bug is bloody hard to kill but only reproduces in certain environments.
If I had to draw a line through australia Id suggest that you start at sydney, follow down the coast on top of the blue mountains and the spear in about half way between melb and adelaide. cut a line in south of busselton and run it about 300KM worth of SE ish and anwhere north or inland of those lines
anywhere inland of those lines is susceptible
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Regardless where you live, the presence of water in fuel appears to trigger the ever-present spores into germination, resulting in the breakdown of their food source (fuel). However evidence does show that given a perfect medium of heat, humidity and water will allow an easier breakout of the bug against say - fuel reserves held in Antartica (Yes they treat their fuel as well).
The bug will flourish by congregating at the point at which fuel and water meet which as you may be aware - is at the bottom of the tank. This position allows the spores to attack the fuel-food source while utilising the available oxygen dissolved in water. Specific organisms will attack various fuel components, producing alternate basal compounds that other organisms will absorb. Paradoxically fuel will remain unaffected by microbial attack for long periods when there is no water present.
A few spores of Cladosporium resinae (as pictured in the Attachment 42627 below) will quickly grow into a substantial colony. Although microscopic, the fungal filaments will grow into a dense mat at the point where fuel meets water. Cladosporium resinae usually precedes the organisms that feed off the byproducts that it produces when breaking down the fuel-food source (The black 'grunge'). The fungi breaks down stable compounds such as the benzene ring structures of fuel to simpler linear hydrocarbons that can then be broken up further by Pseudomona (bacteria) species. Collectively, the microbes will over time greatly impair the ignition characteristics of fuel.
The black residue is actually a bi-product of the actual bug during its growth and feeding stage.
Prevention -
1. Always keep your tank as full as you can if you are not using the vehicle for some time (Minimises air spaces which in turn minimises condensation)
2. Buy your fuel from a high usage outlet eg - a truck station or any fuel station that has a high percentage of diesel customers
3. As pointed out - continual use of fuel conditioners. I have a long range tank and use an anti-fungal agent in every 2nd tank regardless where I fill up
4. Try not to run your fuel down to the last few litres which will risk contaminating your fuel system
If you have got a decent dose of the bug - don't panic, change your filters and mega anti-fungal dose your tank. As the bug dies it will clog your fuel filters so be prepared for a few filter changes
It's only the extreme cases that require a tank removal and clean-out.
I'm ex Navy - we never had the luxury of being able to remove a fuel bunker holding 200 Tonne of fuel - we just had to dose, dose and dose
and keep cleaning fuel lines and filters
By the way - the 'sulphur-dependant' bacteria excrete sulphides that, when mixed with water, produce corrosive sulphuric acid. This acid attacks the metal shell of fuel tanks from the inside.
So in a way - we are somewhat shielded from this now-days with the availability of low sulphur containing diesel fuel.
In closing, the bug also attacks jet-fuel which is just higher refined diesel. Airports are always fighting this same problems that affects our 4WD's
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