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Thread: Clutch Removal 300 Tdi Defender

  1. #1
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    Clutch Removal 300 Tdi Defender

    Is there a 'how to' for this here somewhere? I don't have much luck searching and finding stuff like this.
    In my ever continuing saga of what can go wrong next the clutch made a loud CLUNK and gave up yesterday. No gears high or low with or without CDL operated. Clutch pedal and gearshift feel OK. Can sit with engine going and change through gears without the clutch operated, no noise no movement.
    So I guess it's time to have a peek inside the bell housing. The clutch was making a horrible rattly sound (released and in neutral) occasionally last week. Doesn't any more though .
    The LR manual wants to practically dismantle the whole vehicle to access the clutch but I feel it should be easier.

    Having a look it appears that by removing the plastic transmission tunnel and the 4 gearbox to mount retaining bolts the bell housing/gearbox/TC can be slid back about 100mm and still be resting on the mounts. Will this give enough room ?. Could even bolt the front gearbox mounting holes to the mount rear holes to hold steady maybe ? Does this make sense ? Is there an 'easy' way ?


    Deano

  2. #2
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    no easy way, pull the gear box or the engine for a clutch change.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  3. #3
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    Just paid someone to do mine, enjoy.
    98 Defender 110 tdi Boomer


  4. #4
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    I just did mine on a 200tdi. I dropped the gearbox but it wouldve been easier to pull the engine. Working in cramped spaces is never fun.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by tonic View Post
    Just paid someone to do mine, enjoy.

    Ha, ha.................................and send you the bill ?

    Reading through the LR manual on R380 gearbox removal, for some reason it specifies

    step 12. drain cooling system
    step 13. remove viscous fan unit

    Can't see the point really, same with

    step 46. Support engine under sump with jack

    An excellent idea if there weren't two perfectly good rear engine mounts.

    On the 'Glass is always half full side', it looks to be an easier job than when I did the clutch on my old SII and SIII, which is just as well as I'm a bit older now. Though if I was cleverer I'd take your advice and pay someone else to do it.

    Deano

  6. #6
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    gearbox removal

    Hi

    cant really understand why you should have to drain cooling system. but as for the fan removal when you drop the gearbox the engine will tilt backwards thus pushing the fan into the radiator.

  7. #7
    Discovery-94 Guest
    Hey there...
    Just did my clutch in a 300TDI discovery - decided to take the center console out and borrow an engine crane to go through drivers door and loop a chain around g/box.
    And it worked really well. I have to admit I expected it to be far more difficult, but apart from having a LPG tank restrict access to cross member bolts and rounded heads on a couple of bellhousing bolts it was a fairly straight forward job.
    Ended up having to do it again 2 weeks later due to a wrong clutch plate, and second time around working with a friend we had the box on the floor within 2 hours. So I'm not too sure what people are on about that engine out is an easier option - especially on the way back in, I could not see swinging the engine and rocking the crank to get the mainshaft through the clutchplate being very easy....
    but then again, I've never done it.

    For your theory, I can't see 100mm being enough to get the mainshaft clear of the clutch and remove pressureplate... also from my understanding your issue could very possibly be a gearbox fault ...

    As to draining coolant ---- no need for it in disco, but the engine will tilt forward, so thats why they take the fan off to avoid damaging the radiator (I didnt, if you're careful you'll be right), but since you need to line the g/box up perfectly with the engine, it is great help to have a jack under the sump for better control.

    There. My 25 cents...
    Good luck whatever you decide doing

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by 91ramjet View Post
    Hi

    cant really understand why you should have to drain cooling system. but as for the fan removal when you drop the gearbox the engine will tilt backwards thus pushing the fan into the radiator.
    Top hose length.

    Have a bad day and it'll pull the fitting off the radiator tank.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  9. #9
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    Thanks guys.

    Can see the point about tilting the engine and putting the fan into radiator if not careful, BUT the rear engine mounts are on the rear of the engine and not the bell housing and there is no mention of removing them in LR's detailed instructions, so cant see how engine could tilt ?
    I'll go out into the freezing cold and have another look.

    Deano

    PS. Yep! more of a stay than a mount and the motor can tilt if not supported. My mistake.
    Last edited by DeanoH; 27th May 2012 at 01:28 PM. Reason: more info

  10. #10
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    I think I've found the problem.

    I reckon there is a fair chance that this is what's responsible for my lack of forward motion.



    This occured changing gently from 3rd to 4th on a flat bitumen road. I think it may have been damaged previously. But how the hell do you do this with a meagre 83 Kw ?

    By the look of it this isn't the first time this vehicle has had clutch problems.





    I can only imagine the destruction that happened to allow the thrust bearing to meet the fork.

    Interesting comparing Aussie prices to the Pomms, even allowing for postage still heaps cheaper from OS. But what are the pitfalls ?


    Deano

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