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Thread: 300Tdi radiator, rod original one or new aluminium/plastic one

  1. #1
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    300Tdi radiator, rod original one or new aluminium/plastic one

    Currently doing a service on my cooling system (300Tdi D1) and can get a new radiator for around $115, Britpart plastic/aluminium type. Am I better off buying a new copper one locally for around $400 or going for the newer type?

  2. #2
    redrovertdi Guest
    When i enquired about those radiators they were to thin-narrow depth, i dont think they would be to good in Australia, just my opinion?
    Richard

  3. #3
    redrovertdi Guest
    Also previously had a britpart copper radiator bought off ebay in Australia that developed pinholes with in 6 months, a mates did exactly the same, i ended up with a bearmach radiator which lasted but in the end i spent the money on an oversized allisport radiator[i do alot of towing/300tdi defender]

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by redrovertdi View Post
    Also previously had a britpart copper radiator bought off ebay in Australia that developed pinholes with in 6 months, a mates did exactly the same, i ended up with a bearmach radiator which lasted but in the end i spent the money on an oversized allisport radiator[i do alot of towing/300tdi defender]
    how does this fit in with A/C etc? in which way is it larger?

  5. #5
    redrovertdi Guest
    the radiator is wider accross the car, i have an allard front intercooler and an auto transmission cooler sandwiched in between, i also have the extended fibreglass grill which leaves lots of room for the a/c condenser how ever my condenser and compressor are sitting on the shelf as i am not a fan of windows up and vents closed.
    Richard

  6. #6
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    I put one of the alloy ones in the 130 and no problems so far... I do a lot of heavy beach work and it keeps cool.
    Mainly came down to price as I was quoted over $600 to record the original

  7. #7
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    300Tdi radiator, rod original

    I would opt for the local $400.00c copper unit as aluminum ones don't last as long.
    Had to replace the aluminum one on a Ford we owned a number of years ago, company vehicle, regular service and our mechanic said that he was replacing them more often.
    He quoted for aluminum or copper replacement and went with the latter for a little extra.

    Baggy

  8. #8
    lewy is offline Wizard Silver Subscriber
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    darwin
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    what is wrong with the original,probably just needs a good rodding,Find a good radiator place and ask them.I had my old 93 disco rodded the rad man said it should be fine as they don't make them as well now because of cost.

  9. #9
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    Joel, I'm getting a quote on a high efficiency re-core ATM.

    IIRC it'll have a fin pitch of 11fpi, and I think three rows but extra wide tubes (equivalent to a five row) and dimpling to slow/turbulate the coolant plus have the divider plate bleed closed down to 1/8" or smaller.
    The core is from Redback.

    It'll be interesting to see what $ it comes out to

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by rick130 View Post
    Joel, I'm getting a quote on a high efficiency re-core ATM.

    IIRC it'll have a fin pitch of 11fpi, and I think three rows but extra wide tubes (equivalent to a five row) and dimpling to slow/turbulate the coolant plus have the divider plate bleed closed down to 1/8" or smaller.
    The core is from Redback.

    It'll be interesting to see what $ it comes out to
    hmmmm.....my core that just got done with my rebuild is a redback. I wonder if I got what your looking at?

    I was looking around allisport and noticed they do full width Rad and intercooler, even make the frame/support. I wonder how these would fit in??? I cant go forward unless I ditch the A/C condensor, and then only about 20mm.

    Ill give them an email and report back.....

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