asked and answered.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-t...ming-belt.html
I did a bit of searching on what size and thread the timing pins are but the more i searched the more confused i got.
So
I have a Automatic 300TDI
I'm a tight arse and want to make up the timing pins.
What thread and size pin is the flywheel locking pin?
and what size and lenth pin is the injector pump locking pin?
People have mentioned that the locking pin is either a 1/4 BSP others have said it's 14mm course thread? and i'm not sure if either of these are correct for the Automatic?
The injector pump pin I think is 3/8 but how long do i need it?
Some Advice would be good
Cheers
asked and answered.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-t...ming-belt.html
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
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If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
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Thanks I forgot about this
When i did a serch it did not come back.
Gee i've been Gunna do this for ages.
I guess a gib river trip made me get moving.
I've been gunna do the gib river for ages too
IIRC - A drill bit will make a suitable pump timing pin (Something like a 6.5mm or 8.5mm).
M
First time I used a drill bit but hit my hand on the sharp endthis time I got a long shank bolt and cut the thread off.
The Auto Timing Pin (flywheel lock) is in a different place than the Manual.
The small inspection plate on the vertical side of the flywheel cover is the spot. Remove the larger bolt and loosen the smaller. The larger bolt is the correct thread size for the timing pin. I used a brass air line fitting (male) and Tapped a thread down it's middle for a 1/4" bolt about 50mm long and ground the end to fit in the hole that aligns when the engine is on #1 TDC, regards Frank.
 Master
					
					
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						The flywheel timing pin is an M14x1.5 (fine pitch) high tensile bolt with a 3/16" hole drilled through it then get a piece of 3/16" round key steel to use as the actual locking pin.
The bolt needs to be turned down to 27mm thread length, short enough so you can get it into its hole but long enough to get it to touch the flywheel/driveplate. If you plan to use said pin to hold the crank while you do up the crankshaft pulley bolt, it is essential that the bolt touches (just) the flywheel, that way your pin is loaded only in sheer not in bending and will definitely hold up.
When I first did my timing belt I made the tools as blknight has suggested, when I torqued the pulley bolt the tip of my locking tool broke off.
Also doing it as I have suggested allows you to freely move the pin in and out by hand to feel for the slot as you move the crankshaft around. With a bolt simply turned to a point you don't get that freedom of movement and it is harder to actually lock the flywheel.
I used the tool I have just described over the weekend and I assure you it is the best way.
3/8" drill is all you need for the pump.....
Question. Why do you need to lock the flywheel/crank? I did my belt a few months ago and just used a 3/8" bolt in the IP. Made sure the engine was TDC and the key was on top of the crank. Removed the tensioner and idler to fit new belt and replaced and torqued accordingly. 10k later no issues.
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