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Thread: LT95 gearbox oil .... again.

  1. #1
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    LT95 gearbox oil .... again.

    Hi all. A little background:
    Just bought one of the Perenties at auction and am exceptionally happy with it. Checked the Army's service schedule and it will be due for a major service in 10,000km, so being a trusting bastard, I decided to do it now.
    Drained the transfer to find 5-6ltrs and less than 1ltr in the box. Both boxes had the same oil, probably75W-90? and actually smells like EP.
    OK, so I have the LT95 oil transfer problem ... not a biggie and I'll probably do the filler tube mod, but what oil to replace it with?
    I have a shedload of Peak 75W-85 semi synthetic GL4, which is the Peak recommended oil for the transfer box and runs like water at 20*C.

    My big question is ... is anyone using this type of oil in the main box of a LT95 and do you think/know that this oil is suitable?? And yes, before you tell me to read the 'good oil', I must have read those threads 10 times and am now more confused and frustrated than ever.

    Any input will be greatly appreciated.


    Cheers,
    cw.

  2. #2
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    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/101-forwar...ml#post2002581

    There are many threads about this all over the place.
    Personally, I've been stung before with using gear oil so I'm a stickler for using engine oil. I've learnt my lesson.
    Having said that, I've always wondered, with the tapered bearing kit (which you should have), is it possible to use a thicker oil such as gear oil in them? Is it advisable or not?

  3. #3
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    Haven't used the Peak oil that you have, but have been running Castrol Syntrax (75W90) or Penrite Pro-Gear(75W85) which are both full synthetics in the main box for nearly 50K km's total now with no issues. I'd be happy to run that Peak 75W85 in mine.

    From what I've read and been told by others, a major contributor to the oil migration issue is the spacer on the gearbox output shaft rotating on the shaft.
    Its a simple/quick job to pull the back cover on the transfer and remove the output gear and spacer.
    a very small dab of weld inside the spacer will locate it in the output shaft spline and stop it turning, and refitting it with a smear of sealant (I used Loctite 515) will stop the oil migrating down the inside.

    Mine doesn't suffer oil migration (I also replaced the output seal and put sealant on the reverse gear shaft when rebuilding it but those jobs aren't aren't quick/easy).

    Steve
    1985 County - Isuzu 4bd1 with HX30W turbo, LT95, 255/85-16 KM2's
    1988 120 with rust and potential
    1999 300tdi 130 single cab - "stock as bro"
    2003 D2a Td5 - the boss's daily drive

  4. #4
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    There are so many opinions regarding this but this is my experience. I found that using a 20/50 engine oil to be the most successful I found VMX to be too light. I respect Rick130 and his opinions and I am pretty sure he is an advocate for a dedicated gear oil.

  5. #5
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    People seem to want and make this harder than it needs to be - engine oil 20w50 - KISS

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  6. #6
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    Engine oil for the gearbox & t/c is fine - and a simple solution.

    However, & FWIW, we have been using Castrol Syntrans 75/85 in the gearboxes (R380, LT85 and LT95), and in the lT95 t/c (very smooth changing and extended change life).

    Castrol Australia - Drive Line Fluids (part 2)

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by garrycol View Post
    People seem to want and make this harder than it needs to be - engine oil 20w50 - KISS

    Garry
    I'm sorry if I gave the impression that I'd rather run as many different oils as I can. The purpose of my post is to ascertain whether I can use the same oil in the x-fer as in the main box, as atm, I don't need yet another project ... no time to fix the migration issue at the mo.

    As I already know that the Peak won't eat bronze, I'll re-phrase the question. What I really need to know is .... will the Peak 75w-85 thicken at increased temps, enough to damage the oil pump? I guess I may need to contact Peak.

    Thanks and Cheers,
    cw.

  8. #8
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    No it won't. The issue with thick oil and pump breakage is EP90 oil at very cold temperatures.
    Think there is one of Rick130's posts somewhere giving the relationship between engine oil and transmission oil ratings. IIRC that 75W85 oil you have would be very similar to 20w50 engine oil.

    Steve
    1985 County - Isuzu 4bd1 with HX30W turbo, LT95, 255/85-16 KM2's
    1988 120 with rust and potential
    1999 300tdi 130 single cab - "stock as bro"
    2003 D2a Td5 - the boss's daily drive

  9. #9
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    Thanks Steve,
    That's the info I needed. Guess I should learn how to ask questions.
    I'll give it a run and get back here with the results.


    Cheers,
    cw.

    ps. I had looked for Rick130's post on viscosity relationship, but got bogged down in the massive size of the topic.

  10. #10
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    This thread is a slightly shorter one , and has reference to 75w85.
    I was slightly out - its actually a bit thinner than 20w50 engine oil.
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/isuzu-land...arbox-oil.html

    Steve
    1985 County - Isuzu 4bd1 with HX30W turbo, LT95, 255/85-16 KM2's
    1988 120 with rust and potential
    1999 300tdi 130 single cab - "stock as bro"
    2003 D2a Td5 - the boss's daily drive

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