Did not know they made them for the trans case, have been looking at the ATB for front and rear diffs, so may actually need 3Minister for finance will be shell shocked when i can afford them.
Thanks for the review.
So,
Have just returned from a corner country trip and considering the distinct lack of reviews when I bought this jigger I thought I would post one up.
This is what I am talking of:
Ashcroft Transmissions
Essentially a limited slip centre differential for the transfer case of landys that run the LT230.
To save reading all the below poorly written review the short version is, if you have a landy with an LT230 and drive on fast dirt (80-100km/h) just buy one.
Now the ramble.
My '95 130 tray back had a leaky transfer case from the good old wear induced oval of the case from the intermediate shaft. So I ordered up a set of seals, bearings and a Dave Ashcroft ATB centre diff. My rationale was that I spend a goodly amount of time on fast dirt but perhaps mostly that it would make "rebuilding" of the case much easier!
To fix the leak I essentially copied what has been done many times before, Noel (AncientMariner - http://www.aulro.com/afvb/modified-z...844-lt230.html) has previously documented this on AULRO. Turning up a 4140 collar for the "floating" end of the intermediate shaft that is pressed into the aluminium housing. This collar sealed very nicely using new 0-rings.
The case rebuild was relatively simple, having only pulled apart tojo cases I simply followed the LT230 overhaul manual... the only step I perhaps missed was taking insufficient care pressing in the front output housing bearing resulting in broken housings and a rescue trip care of Noel!
Anyways the case all got stitched back together nicely. I had intended to get the case and gear bag all back in and take it for a few hundred km trial run but work went spastic, I broke the housing, spent an inordinate amount of time increasing heat proofing and was waiting on delivery of a cooler for the R380 so in the end the ute was only stitched together on the Sunday prior to a Monday departure two weeks ago. The trial run was a 5000km roady !!! No scary noises and all went well in the first few hundred so I pushed on...
The route we took from Cooktown to Tibooburra was as straight line as possible incorporating plenty of dirt as you would expect. We did a loop through the Strez and Innaminka back through the corner and across to Currawinya before straight lining back to Cooktown. My theory is a dirt road at 80-90 is a million times more interesting than black stuff at 100 so taking station tracks and secondary roads makes sense to me. All up five grand or so with about 2/3 of that on gravel.
The ATB is freaking awesome on fast gravel. Full stop the end.
I am somewhat cut from a cloth worn by Rick130 (always keep your front bump stops shiny) and the control given of the ATB on gravel is fantastic. Obviously I couldnt directly compare to a truly open centre but from what I recall the ATB controls front-rear shunting (most notable on skatey corrugated fast open corners) brilliantly. It gives a very direct and even and safe cornering attitude with no significant or ugly looseness. I had to try really really really hard to get the rear to step out of line. In all honesty this simple modification is a major safety feature. Unlike an open centre it is really hard to get into oversteer on a loose corner.
I spent a bit of time generating a direct comparison between ATB vs locked centre diff. Previously I would always lock the centre on fast gravel to give more direct cornering (and obviously protect the diff). One issue with a locked centre is a tendency to push understeer. This was very noticeable flicking between locked and ATB on the same road surfaces. I preferred ATB by far on fast gravel. The other big difference between ATB and locked is on particularly uneven road surfaces, potholes, dust holes and whoops. A locked centre will tend to grab either the front or rear axle which ever finds traction first, this gives a shunt and introduces unsteadiness to travel. The ATB over the same surfaces seems un-fazed by these effects.
All in all I am stoked with the ATB and would recommend it.
Now a few details for those that care:
-Neck wrunged 300tdi 1995 130 defender.
-Barwork, winch, alloy tray, roof top tent.
-Would have been at about 2800kg.
-Averaged 13L/100 (actual km not speedo estimate)
-235/85R16 Bridgy muds running 30psi cold font and 42psi cold rear.
-Bilsteins allround - only noticed fade at the end of a 900km day with 650km on dirt.
-Rear Springs OEM main coils with polyairs inside
-Front Springs Kings ~220lb/in (old and worn)
Tomorrow the plan is to change out the t-case fluid. Obviously will look for obvious contaminates but dont expect to find anything too dramatic.
Steve
'95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
'10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)
Did not know they made them for the trans case, have been looking at the ATB for front and rear diffs, so may actually need 3Minister for finance will be shell shocked when i can afford them.
Thanks for the review.
2011 Discovery 4 TDV6
2009 DRZ400E Suzuki
1956 & 1961 P4 Rover (project)
1976 SS Torana (project - all cash donations or parts accepted)
2003 WK Holden Statesman
Departed
2000 Defender Extreme: Shrek (but only to son)
84 RR (Gone) 97 Tdi Disco (Gone)
98 Ducati 900SS Gone & Missed
Facta Non Verba
Thanks very much for the review!
How does this ATB work though? The Ashcroft site doesn't really explain?
Sounds excellent Steve. A couple of questions:
With the ATB installed is there still the ability to lock the centre diff?
Does this get rid of the bushes in the centre diff that wear and create lash in the driveline?
Cheers
Slunnie
~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~
Hi simon, because steve will no doubt be sleeping off the effects of too much west coast cooler, the answer to your questions is a yes to both :-)
Jc
The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
Correct JC on the sleep off but at least I dont drink pink fizzy Vodka
Simon, to elaborate on "yes to both" the Ashcroft unit replaces the entire centre differential assembly including shaft, front and rear splined outputs and actual differential.
So at rebuild it is a simple matter of pressing off one bearing, removing the high range gear, high/low hub and low range gear. Putting these onto the Ashcroft jigger and then installing the new bearings.
The unit completely negates the wearing shims, spider gears and two piece cross shaft of the OEM centre differential and too boot makes setup at rebuild a dozzle. You dont need to setup the centre differential pre-load etc etc.
There are no other changes to the box so the diff lock (which works in the front output housing by sliding a dog onto the front output) is unchanged.
One thing I saw no mention of either on the Ashcroft site or with the unit was recommended oil. Currently it is swimming in Castrol 80W-90. I presumed that the T-Case ATB is the same as Ashcrofts other ATBs using " 'Helical Gear' type LSD with six gear pockets".
If Dave Ashcroft is listening have you any input on oiling? Will 80W-90 cover suit in hot running conditions?
Steve
'95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
'10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)
Sounds excellent, thanks JC and Steve. Certainly sounds like a good option.
Cheers
Slunnie
~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~
 Wizard
					
					
						Supporter
					
					
						Wizard
					
					
						SupporterThanks for the write up Steve. As you say, its an easy install. I put one in primarily to remove centre diff vulnerabilities (thrust washer wear. two pins instead of one machined unit etc); plus not having to shift in and out of lock when alternating regularly on hard and soft surfaces. And then when the going gets tough you can also lock it.
If Ashcroft could figure out lockable front and rear diff ATB's it would be the ideal set up for those without traction control.
 Wizard
					
					
						Wizard
					
					
                                        
					
					
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