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Thread: I changed a 300 TDi fan bearing

  1. #1
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    I changed a 300 TDi fan bearing

    I'm currently fixing up a 300TDi to fit to a mate's '94 RR LSE so I searched on the forum for a part number for the bearing on its own. There's a tractor bearing available that's a little longer than the original, made by Koyo (KOYO 88580 2RS). So first of all I pulled off the flange using a split puller plate to evenly support all 4 corners. Then after supporting the cover face down over the press plate I pushed the old bearing out the front. Then I compared the old and new bearings.

    I changed a 300 TDi fan bearing-dsc03519_cr.jpg

    There's plenty of space behind the bearing for the slightly longer body and a stumpy bit of shaft. I cut the excess lengths off with a slitting wheel and an angle grinder. I bevelled the shaft ends, particularly the front end for the flange.

    I changed a 300 TDi fan bearing-dsc03520_cr.jpg

    Then I supported the cover with a large socket inside the cover and pressed the new bearing in with the load taken on the bearing outer race.

    I changed a 300 TDi fan bearing-dsc03521_cr.jpg

    Once the bearing was flush with the outer side of the cover I pressed on the flange after supporting the stumpy end of the shaft from underneath.

    I changed a 300 TDi fan bearing-dsc03523.jpg

    Good as new and a fraction of the cost ($60 for the bearing instead of $450 for the whole cover)
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  2. #2
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    Thank you very much for the p/n and the pics I have a feeling ile be doing one on the defender shortly before fitting the larger ford fan

  3. #3
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    well done, you made it look easy
    '95 Defender 130 Single Cab
    HS2.8 TGV Powered
    ------------
    98% of all Land Rovers built are still on the road.
    The other 2% made it home.

    Cost difference between Britpart and Genuine seals: £2.04. Knowing that your brakes won't fail at any moment: Priceless.

  4. #4
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  5. #5
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    I hope it lasts better than the last genuine LR cover I fitted. After 6000km the flange fell off, spearing the fan through the radiator.

    I am still trying to get compensation from the supplier, even after being told verbally over several phone calls that they would foot the bill.

  6. #6
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    Also on this thread the Ford EA, EB, ED water pump bearing solution.
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-t...lutions-3.html

    Bee utey's part number at least means you do not need to press out the bearing from the pump housing first, which is a time saver. But, if you are like me and broke the original flange getting it off - the water pump comes with a new one which fits nicely.

  7. #7
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    Make mistakes and learn from them

    I had the opportunity to do this job again, the bearing was unavailable at short notice so I purchased a Ford pump from Bursons.

    1. The LR flange broke even when carefully supported, so I drilled and cut it to get it off.

    2. I pulled the flange off the Ford pump, tried a test fit to the LR pulley and it needed a bit of machining to make the pulley fit.

    3. I pressed out the Ford bearing which was devilishly tight. In the process the bearing housing must have distorted slightly from metal transfer off the pump housing bore as the bearing now ran a little too tight for my liking but I persevered.

    4. I pressed the cut down Ford bearing into the LR housing and pressed on the flange. During the pressing the flange suddenly shot on and a lick of removed metal appeared out the front of the hole.

    Damn and blast, get another pump and try again.

    1. Bend up the impeller on the Ford pump and pull it off with a 3 legged puller.

    2. Remove the seal with two large flat screw drivers and a small hammer.

    3. Split the Ford pump housing with a slitting wheel and a cold chisel so the pump bearing just pops out unmolested.

    4. Set up the Ford bearing and front flange in the press and heat the flange with a torch until it pops.

    5. Fit the cut down bearing into the LR housing and line up the modified flange. Note that the Ford bearing has to be pressed below flush by 1mm to allow the flange to align correctly.

    6. Heat the flange, oil the bearing shaft and press on the machined flange with crossed fingers.

    7. Refit the timing cover after remembering to check that the little disc of gasket is still glued to the front cover.

    8. Test drive after checking for alignment and lack of noise.

    Cost per pump $50 trade, value of learning something, priceless.

    I changed a 300 TDi fan bearing-pump-bits.jpg
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  8. #8
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    You are lucky that the after market Ford pump had the correct size bearing.

    I did the same thing a few years back and wasted fifty bucks, as the non genuine Repco pump had a bearing that was 2mm smaller on the OD.

    See post #7 on an old thread of the same topic.

    https://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-...solutions.html
    Dave.

    I was asked " Is it ignorance or apathy?" I replied "I don't know and I don't care."


    1983 RR gone (wish I kept it)
    1996 TDI ES.
    2003 TD5 HSE
    1987 Isuzu County

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by d2dave View Post
    You are lucky that the after market Ford pump had the correct size bearing.

    I did the same thing a few years back and wasted fifty bucks, as the non genuine Repco pump had a bearing that was 2mm smaller on the OD.

    See post #7 on an old thread of the same topic.

    https://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-...solutions.html
    The Bursons rep told me they only sell Japanese made GMB pumps to save on warranty claims. I'm not fond of Rip Every Poor Chap Off parts in general.

  10. #10
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    I got my Ford water pump from Bursons when I did this job too - didn't have any issue with sizing - other than the cutting, pressing and swearing that this job generally entails.

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