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Thread: Anderson plugs for cranking/jump starting Recommendations.

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies View Post
    Thanks Mitch great info.

    Tried looking at the .pdf but your firewall is blocking my download!
    Ahh...Rookie mistake!

    I think this was the intended link:
    Otherwise there is plenty of good info on the Anderson Power Products website... The original manufacturer.
    I guess it's anyone's guess what the knock-off products are rated to though, so be wary if you are needing it for a critical application.
    Last edited by Toxic_Avenger; 31st March 2015 at 08:27 PM. Reason: I fail at the internet.
    -Mitch
    'El Burro' 2012 Defender 90.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies View Post
    Am wanting to put some Anderson plugs onto vehicles to be used for slave starting.

    What size plugs do I need?
    1. SB 175
    2. SB 350


    Who is a good supplier of the appropriate cable?
    See me at work as I have Anderson plugs at a very good price and cable to suit.
    I use 175 amp Anderson plug in my work van to jump start anything I come across and never had a problem.
    My 101 and Studebaker both have 175 amp Anderson plugs permanently fitted to the rear of them to run anything 12 volt or for jump starting.
    Even the family camper van so if required I can connect any thing to any thing even if it is just a solar panel.
    A 175 amp plug will handle jump starting up to a medium size truck
    If jump starting a Kenworth I would recommend a 350 amp plug to be fitted to that size vehicle.
    The thing which really helps with the use of these plugs is optional handle.
    The cable used to the plug is more limiting than the plug its self.

  3. #13
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    the correct read for those charts is a look up.

    based off of a starting ambient temp (nominally 25 deg c ) but for this purpose it makes neglible difference

    the chart tells you how long you can pump how many amps through the connection before the contacts heat up by 40 degrees.

    ignoring all the really really advanced temp vs resistance stuff and wedging the factor down a touch for a bit of the old why not ust for safety and cause we dont waat it to melt you can then work up or down to or from the insulation melting point for your insualtion... that'll normally be around the 200 degree mark so you get 4 lots of temp rise before you're in trouble.

    so you could have 2500 amps for 4 seconds before youd compromise the plug and for even the hardest starting youd wind up with maybe that for 1/10th of a second then youd taper down to say 300 amps and hold there so youd be limted to about 30 seconds of cranking. before your resistance was at risk of permanent failure. and realistically most start attempts dont go past 10 seconds

    and rememebr that the lugs will get hottest first and thats why we crimp not solder these connections.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
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  4. #14
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    Checkout this thread and pics
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/communicat...-defender.html
    Ron

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    the correct read for those charts is a look up.

    based off of a starting ambient temp (nominally 25 deg c ) but for this purpose it makes neglible difference

    the chart tells you how long you can pump how many amps through the connection before the contacts heat up by 40 degrees.

    ignoring all the really really advanced temp vs resistance stuff and wedging the factor down a touch for a bit of the old why not ust for safety and cause we dont waat it to melt you can then work up or down to or from the insulation melting point for your insualtion... that'll normally be around the 200 degree mark so you get 4 lots of temp rise before you're in trouble.

    so you could have 2500 amps for 4 seconds before youd compromise the plug and for even the hardest starting youd wind up with maybe that for 1/10th of a second then youd taper down to say 300 amps and hold there so youd be limted to about 30 seconds of cranking. before your resistance was at risk of permanent failure. and realistically most start attempts dont go past 10 seconds

    and rememebr that the lugs will get hottest first and thats why we crimp not solder these connections.
    You should probably go off the max cable temp which is usually 70-90 degrees Celsius, rather then the melting point.

    So 40 above ambient is just about there already.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by BadCo. View Post
    You should probably go off the max cable temp which is usually 70-90 degrees Celsius, rather then the melting point.

    So 40 above ambient is just about there already.
    Or dont buy house wire, use automotive stuff with pretty much anything but polyester insulation my engine bay temps go over 90 degrees and i dont even want to think about how hot it is down by the starter trapped under the exhaust and behind the turbo with the airflow from the fan blocked by the dump pipe, when I'm winding the noise on so hard that I havent looked at the boost gauge for so long Im wondering why I bothered to install it the EGT hasnt been under 625 for as long as I can remember, has had the madman having conniptions trying to tell me if it cares more about the EGT almost living past 640 or the fact that the cooling systems over 110 and the only break Im giving the whole damn thing is about 28 seconds into the 30 second cooling system overheat shutdown when I back off just long enough for that to shut up before sticking the boot back into it.

    you know when your abusing the engine so hard you know that even the ISIS henchmen are just looking at you shaking their heads and giving it "thats harsh"

    for the purpose of working out how much you can put through for short periods you can run the cable over the max temp its rated for, just not the max insulation temp. The temperature rating on the cable is like the amps rating on the plug.

    me I'm a really big fan of welding cable for jumper leads or aviation grade powercable and when it comes to size, for jumper cables size is king....

    I kinda like the 1200A+ kind of sizes.

    If you cant dead short a fully charged N70 without letting the smoke out of your cable then they're just booster cables
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    <snip>
    me I'm a really big fan of welding cable for jumper leads or aviation grade powercable and when it comes to size, for jumper cables size is king....

    I kinda like the 1200A+ kind of sizes.

    If you cant dead short a fully charged N70 without letting the smoke out of your cable then they're just booster cables
    You and me both

    These are my 1000A leads made with 50mm2 a-flex (basically welding cable). They are 6 meters long so you can jump start a truck nose to tail

    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #18
    alanw is offline Fossicker Silver Subscriber
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    For many years I have used a system where the jumper leads I carry have a 175A Anderson plug on one end and normal clamps on the other.


    All of my work vehicles (3 by 130's) have a 175A Anderson plug mounted between the seat rails and the door just above the battery box. Its a very neat fit - and a short cable run from the battery - and , yes, there is a fuse in the system.(500A)


    Also works as an easy way to charge a flat battery without taking the seat out - just hook the charger on.


    I also carry one of the Thumper portable battery units - for where the jumper leads cannot reach - and they use the same 175A plug. And the short leads that come with this will plug into the longer leads I carry and turn them into a normal set of jumper leads.


    Also put 175A plugs at front and back of vehicle as a power source/connection for a winch - or to plug the jumper leads in if the seat plug is too far away.


    Use welding cable - because it it readily available by the metre.


    The system has always worked well - and it is used a lot. Very happy with it.

  9. #19
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    Thanks guys.

    We really want to use cables without clamps. e.g. the Stuart battery is in a box 6 feet above the ground under an armour plate cover on the top deck of the hull. When the radial engine fails to start we want to slave off another vehicle as quickly as possible to get on with the parade or whatever we're doing.

    Hence the desire for double Anderson ended slave leads and plugs on each vehicle

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies View Post
    a 1940's 7 cylinder Continental radials and 6.5 litre International and White engines
    Umm pic please

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