Thread: Tips for replacing the coolant pump p-gasket - Tdi

One of the things most Tdi owners have to do sooner or later is replace the P-gasket between the pump housing and the engine block. Despite what looks like a huge job isn't so bad.

At the back of the pump housing, where it meets the block (In front of the turbo) , you might see some discoloration or water marks - that's the cue to replace the paper gasket with a metal version. (Cheap too)

I used 3m of 5mm PVC tubing from a hardware store to drain the coolant into a bucket - the 5mm tube slides down the hole directly beneath the filler cap on the coolant resevoir. Jiggle the pipe a bit, and the PVC tube gets down to near the bottom of the radiator. Siphon away and let gravity do it's thing. ( Edit: Put a bucket under the block drain plug and drain block - very necessary, otherwise you can't clean the mating face properly)

Remove one of the battery leads, undo connections and remove alternator. Remove top radiator hose, shroud, fan and top turbo hose.


Remove the five bolts that hold the PSteer adaptor plate to bracket, PStter pump then moves out of the way without removing pipes.





This is where it gets difficult:


Those three 125mm M8 bolts in the triangle pattern you now have to undo are mounted in 10mm holes within the bracket casting. When the gasket starts to fail, it lets coolant into the space between the bolt and casting, causing rust. (Edit: There's a bolt behind the tensioner, and a stud/nut at the rear of the bracket as well )



I figured I'd snap at least one of the bolts so I had some spares. Regular fastener suppliers don't have flanged 125mm M8 bolts - ordinary High tensile with washers will do. That last bolt, after I got over the hump of corrosion near the threaded end( That hump caused the head to snap off- un Firetrucking believable), undid easily.



The locking pipe type pliers I got from supercheap for $10, and they are usefull in holding both WP & PS pulleys whilst undoing the bolts holding them to the pumps.

Refit: As per manual - but I figure filling the cavity surrounding the 125mm bolts with silicone will keep corrosion at bay. Refit is easy, and Hey presto-no more leaks.

ADDED NOTE: Later I replaced the water pump, and used the paper gasket supplied. For reasons unknown the paper gasket failed, whereas the RTV silicone I had previously used gave me no problems.

langy

Good one langy, on that siphon setup,
after I got a foot full of water when I did mine last year,
Looks like you got a photo of mine by the look of the bolts, I had two that snapped off and one that was that corroded had to drill the head off.
Had no trouble getting replacements from the local bolt barn.
I also replaced the plastic rubbish caps on the thermostat and radiator with brass ones i bought from the local plumbing place.


john