Thread: Discovery II brakes

Are they those TORX heads like a star shaped but with many points? Maybe a mechanic here can Identify them as I'm interested at getting to mine aswell

I think they're just 12-point heads. Put a socket or ring spanner on one and check that it fits snuggly.

to undo the screw.....which is usually too tight for a screw driver....
use an impact screw driver.....available where you buy tools of course.....

all you do is hit it with a hammer.....this pushes in on the screw to release pressure on the threads.....
and it also twists at the same time to undo the screw.....once its loose....
you just screw it back in hand tight with a normal screwdriver.....




as for the bolt that holds the caliper bracket on.....from memory its a 13mm multihex.....
so....a multihex...(or double hex)...socket is all you need....or the ring end of a 13mm spanner.....


how badly scored is the rotor.....as in how much of the surface....?
5%...10%....50%.....
and how deep is the scoring.....you may not have to replace the rotor.....
it may be ok to leave it....just replace the pads......
if you do replace the rotor....you should replace both sides....not just one....


i have a scored rotor on the back of lurch......
it happenend a year or two ago.....ran out of pads just after leaving home on a trip......
i ignored the noise for a few hundred kms....till the handbrake actually started to hear it.....
the pads had been grinding for about a month before this......but it wasnt a problem......
the problem was i was towing the caravan on this trip which meant i had to brake harder each time......
with all the extra weight......replaced the pads eventually in forster.....

its now noisy again on the back.....i suspect the same side of the scored disc will have worn that pad a bit
sooner than the other pads.......which is to be expected....but its only been doing it for about 4 months......
its not the heavy grinding of metal to metal.....which can weld the pad to the rotor.....
just a very light squeal when braking lightly.....
i will tend to it in the next week or two as i can afford new pads now.....

what im trying to tell you is.....its not really dangerous to leave a damaged rotor in service.....
its just not good practice.....and will wear out one pad a bit quicker.....
bu again...it depends on how bad the damage is.......

a quick search on here will uncover heaps of advice about non-genuine rotors and pads,,

hi-performance,
low "black crap" pads,
vented,
crossdrilled,

mine will cover the front rims in carbon(?) in about a week,,

Have a look here: http://rangerovers.net/maintenance/brakejob4.html

The P38A is much the same as the D2.

A standard 12 point socket will fit the bolts - they are a double hex.

Ron

Thanks to all that responded

The job in the end was very easy to do. With the bolts that hold the full caliper on it is a 19mm. I used a 12 point socket with a breaker bar and it released easily. The problem area was the screw which holds the rotor to the hub. I took Defenderzook's advice and bought an impact driver. The only problem with it is the screwheads are not big enough. Phillips 2 & 3 are small but I had a very large phillips head in a cheap socket set which fitted a lot better. The main trick from Ron's link was to heat up the screw. This worked perfectly. With a little heat then the impact driver had them undone in a flash.

So its all ready to do. As per usual no one has rotors in stock so I have to wait for those till next week. The new pads are in and have bled the brakes to give it a freshen up. I will be doing it all again next weekend so the new slotted rotors can go on, another brake flush and the jobs complete.

Cheers.

do we get pics???

Why re-invent the wheel.

Ron's link to the rangerover brakes was excellent. The procedure is pretty well the same for a Discovery.

But there is always next week


Cheers.