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Old 1st September 2006, 06:12 PM
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Installing new transmission

Hi all,
i'm about to start on puting a new zf and lt230 in my '89 Rangie (converting from the viscous) and i need help with how to get the transmission in and out or rather down then back up. In the manual it says to use a craddle that you need to make, do i really need this? And if so does anyone in Melbourne have one i can borrow? Or can i do it with 2 jacks? There will be 2 of us doing the work.

Any ideas would be great.
Thanks

Alex
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Old 1st September 2006, 06:24 PM
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If you do the ZF and the TC seperately it will be a piece of cake. Use a trolley jack to lower it down then jack up the side of the Rangie with another jack to get it out. If the car is not lifted ie spring lift or body lift then it will be slightly harder but should be ok. May need to drop the box onto a tarp on the floor under the vehicle then drag the tarp out, this gets the box lower to the ground.

I hope that makes sense!

I did an LT95 earlier in the year where the transmission and transfer case are all one piece and that was HARD!
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Old 1st September 2006, 06:28 PM
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Thanks,
At the moment the zf and lt230 are seperate. Will it be possible to join them once the zf is already bolted in? I thought that i had to bolt them together before instalation.
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Old 1st September 2006, 10:32 PM
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we used to pull them out as one unit......had the car up on stands and would use upto 3 trolley jacks
to get the box in and out......basically....the jacks did all the lifting.....
once it was all in position....it took a couple of kicks from the back to push the box home.....
when it was going in or out.....there would be upto 4 people.....one on each jack....plus the person doing the job guiding everyone.....
its good when theres others around to help.....the three and four people thing was only for about 5 mins.....if that....
just to get the box out....and same again to fit it......

just make sure there are no limbs or bodies under it....if it goes on you its very heavy.....do not try to catch it......
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Old 1st September 2006, 10:47 PM
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I usually use bricks and a large piece of plywood or similar and make like a platform so that its not as far to lift then use jacks to lift higher into position.
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Old 1st September 2006, 11:27 PM
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If you can't get the gear for jacking it up as the others have said ( which may be easier), I had sucess on my own using an engine crane thru the open window, and an ordinary ratchet strap thru the hole in the transmission tunnel. Try to offset the weight on the way down, and then experiment with both transfer and GB joined getting it level and slightly tilted upwards toward the engine (which now will be slightly tilted down) . Then up on the engine crane, and since there is some play in the strap / wheels on the crane, you can wriggle the box around a bit until the splines engage. Probably need a bolt or two to pull it into the engine, but at least it won't fall down.
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Old 2nd September 2006, 07:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vogue
Thanks,
At the moment the zf and lt230 are seperate. Will it be possible to join them once the zf is already bolted in? I thought that i had to bolt them together before instalation.
I haven't had anything to do with autos. Have heard that you have to be careful to get the oil pump (I think it was the pump??) drive engaged properly when you fit the box up to the engine. Otherwise the drive fails and the box destructs $$$ in short time. Others who know more about this may like to clarify.

Easier to fit the t/case separate. Make some guides from threaded rod - screw these into the bolt holes on the back of the gearbox and then slide the t/case along them.

With ZF's, they have a spud shaft on the back for the t/case input gear. Make sure it is the type with the longer splines for the later input gear with crossed drilled lube hole (was a later mod to overcome the notorious spline wear failure).

The spud shaft and input gear can be fitted after the t/case is bolted up. this makes it easier to fit the t/case.
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Old 2nd September 2006, 02:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bush65
I haven't had anything to do with autos. Have heard that you have to be careful to get the oil pump (I think it was the pump??) drive engaged properly when you fit the box up to the engine. Otherwise the drive fails and the box destructs $$$ in short time. Others who know more about this may like to clarify.

Easier to fit the t/case separate. Make some guides from threaded rod - screw these into the bolt holes on the back of the gearbox and then slide the t/case along them.

With ZF's, they have a spud shaft on the back for the t/case input gear. Make sure it is the type with the longer splines for the later input gear with crossed drilled lube hole (was a later mod to overcome the notorious spline wear failure).

The spud shaft and input gear can be fitted after the t/case is bolted up. this makes it easier to fit the t/case.
Its the torque converter that must be fully engaged or it wont drive the oilpump and then.............BANG !
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Old 2nd September 2006, 02:21 PM
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I took mine out and recently to fit a new flex plate.

We had the RR on a hoist and used an engine crane from under the car. An adapter was fitted to the jib. The adaptor bolted to the gearbox and the crane took all the weight.

Ron
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Old 3rd September 2006, 02:22 PM
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Hi again, i'm making slow progress with pulling out the old transmission.
Few more???
1. When i join the zf to the lt230 do i have to use a gasket or sealer?
2. And when i join the zf to the engine do i use a gasket or sealer?
3. When i have the auto off is there any bearings or seals on the motor that i should replace while i'm there?

Thanks
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