Thread: Rear window glass dropped !

Originally Posted by waynep

My rear drivers side window will not stay up.
Currently it's held up with duct tape.
I have electric windows - can hear the motor working but it doesn't push the window up.
I'll pull it apart on the weekend and take a look, but has anyone else had this problem ??

Mate pull the trim off the door and have a look see if the motor driver is still sitting in the channel on the bottom of the window glass,sometimes they pop out an the glass falls down, easy fix just push it back in

T

on my Rangie i had one of the bolts holding the motor in come loose. Did it up and up the window went.
There usually simple things that take hours to fix.

Thanks guys I am hoping it will be something very simple like you mentioned.

Does anyone have a good method of pulling the door trim without brekaing the retainers off ?

Just found a thread that talks about removing door trim - sorry should have done a search first

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/showthread.php't=30787

OK I took it all apart today and here is what I found to be the problem, and what I think may be a useful and cheap solution for others in the forum.

The nylon roller that runs along the guide at the bottom of the window had actually broken in two. The following pic is the end of the window lifting arm where this roller sits. The roller assembly itself is just pressed onto the arm. Subsequent research around the forums shows this is actually a common problem.

Now I suspect if went to a LR shop they woulld tell me I would need at least a whole new arm assembly if not a whole motor assembly -possibly quite a few $$$.
I'm thinking this looks a bit like a roller on a household sliding door so I trot down to Bunnings on the off chance. After a bit of searching I find a door roller replacement kit about the same size for $3.95. It is slightly less diameter then the OE and possible slightly wider, but worth a try.

Filing off the old roller and replacing it with the new one ( bolt it on with the self locking nut supplied) achieves this :

Note : The outer lips of the channel where the roller runs need bending outwards slightly along its length, to allow free movement as central bearing part of the new roller is slightly wider than OE. I just eased it out a bit with a pair of vice grips. The nylon "tyre" part of the roller may not be running fully in the bottom of the track either, but because of the rounder shape it seems to run smoothly enough.
The end result of the new roller with the motor and channel assembly is shown in the following two photos :


Fitted back in, this seems to work very smoothly. The new roller is actually a ball bearing roller so I believe it is far more robust than OEM. Well, it may only last a couple of months but worth a trial. I'll let you know.

nice work,,

with mine the channel had just, well, rusted away---

thanks for all the info you have just saved me a lot of work, i have the same problem with me 95 disco. and i have had the window taped up for about 12 months. anyway thanks again