Thread: TD5 not starting (sometimes) - Fuel prob?

Just to add:

When it happens, the engine runs very briefly the first time it is started (i.e. after a week of standing) and then dies about 3-4 seconds later.

Then, it's the purge process + lots of cranking to get it started again.

The O rings at the sedimentor can leak air into the system.
In theory, it can do this at any joint but we've done a few at the sedimentor.

OK thanks - is the sedimentor the filter looking thing with 4 pipes in/out of it behind the drivers side rear wheel?

Is it an O-ring job or do I need new special plastic bayonet fittings?

it can be the fuel regulator sticking open or the oneway on the pump slipping back. If the seals on any other part of the system are dodgy you'll know it by the weep of dieso that they'll leak while running.

easo came down for me t olook at his which is doing a similar thing and a couple of gentle love taps to the regulator helped a bit. His pump is also noisey but you can hear the fuel going through his primary filter (the one behind the RHR wheel) like its unrestricted..

yours will start and fire a bit as its running off the fuel still in the head and injectors.

BlkKnight - more questions! Is the fuel regulator the thing on the back of the engine/head that commonly leaks in TD5s? I had that replaced a year ago.

There are no obvious leaks of diesel anywhere in the system, and I have taken the rear tray off so I can see the fuel tank and where the pump goes into it and all the pipes leading along the chassis to the engine.

I did pull out the fuel pump from the tank because it was making some funny noises, so I disconnected the pipes to the top of the pump (4 of them - special clips), but there is no diesel that I can see leaking here.

yep the little thing on the RHR of the engine with about 4 pipes coming from it and one electrical plug...

if youve got the fittings you can use an air pressure gauge , an approptiate 2 piece and a ballcock valve to check the pressure...

remove the pipe that is the output of the pump from the filter attach that to the t piece, then attach the return line and the ballcock to the other side of the t piece. Using a long piece of air hose (3 feet minimum to maintain an air bubble for the guage) power up the pump...

as you wind the the valve closed the pump should load up.. If you fully close the valve and cant get the pressure required you have a pump fault.

Watch the gauge like a hawk as soon as it hits the nominated pressure go no further bad things can happen, turn the pump of ASAP then open the valve.

Have you got a dent in the bottom of your fuel tank? Might be just enough to block or lift clear the fuel pick up when on hill and low on fuel.

Cheers
Simon.

Hi David
Pumping the acc dont do anything.Its a modern EFI diesel,once the glow light goes out turn the key and go.
Im thinking your fuel pressure reg is leaking as mine was a bit slow to fire up when mine was leaking.
HOW TO CHECK FOR LEAKS FROM THE REG(a standard TD5 issue)
Park your Defender up for the night,go say hello to the missus and kids,grab a beer have 4 or 5 slurps.Go back to the Defender look underneath,if there are 2 wetspots about 2 to 3 inches in dia its the fuel pressure reg leaking after shutdown.NOT AIRCON WETSPOTS THEY DONT SMELL THE SAME!!!!!
You need to get in touch with one of our friendly NON DEALER suppliers to get the new updated regulator and MATCHING gasket,its an update the original gasket type wont seal.You will save a fair bit getting the genuine part from a non dealer SPECIALIST!!!!
Andrew